spsman
31-08-2004, 02:34 PM
Dear all,
Due to many qns posed by fellow reefers, i have decided to share some proven mtds of husbandary and this will be my first post. This article is for this forum only and shall not be used, edited, cut, manipulated, whatsoever by others without prior consent.
Have u wondered why some sun corals do well in certain tanks and some just wither away? Why some sun corals are not as receptive to food as compared to others?
I will start by a brief intro to the coral genus, followed by reasons why it does not "open", finally a proven metd for all to use.
Sun corals are in the genus Tubastraea , commonly 5 species. Micrantha (black sun coral), faulkneri (orange color), coccinea(orange, bushy look), aurea (golden color), diaphana (darker tissue).
Common locations on the reef: under overhangs, at the entrance of caves, moderate to high flow regions.
They do not depend on photosysnthesis which means they must be fed! They are not stressed under light/ without light. in other words, u can place them anywhere in your tank, with the only concern being the "water flow" only.
Thus, it is said to be the easiest and most fun coral to keep.
These are the following reasons whereby the corals do not "bloom" in your tank:
1) they were already starved and have no more energy to capture food
2) congratulations, you have a low nutrient tank.
3) the flow areas in your tank are limited and food does not reach the coral at all.
4) the coral was badly collected and they are dying. (sun corals are not commercially farmed)
Whatever the reasons, these following pics demonstrate the way to revive the "never open before" sun coral in your tank.
1) unopened sun coral
2) put into a container of any size, preferably longitudinal
3) frozen cyclopeez
4) add a generous pinch into the container
5) place into the quarantine tank. (the importance of qt again)
place the coral in this qt for 12 hours. it shud "open" up a little by now.
When it opens up already, it is ready to be placed back into the main display tank. only then, u can feed freshly hatched brine shrimp.
my recommended best food is the frozen cyclopeez.
ok, cheerz and happy experimenting. in the next issue, i will demo other things like fraggin techniques, growth patterns, lighting and flow regimes.
be sure to tune in.
Due to many qns posed by fellow reefers, i have decided to share some proven mtds of husbandary and this will be my first post. This article is for this forum only and shall not be used, edited, cut, manipulated, whatsoever by others without prior consent.
Have u wondered why some sun corals do well in certain tanks and some just wither away? Why some sun corals are not as receptive to food as compared to others?
I will start by a brief intro to the coral genus, followed by reasons why it does not "open", finally a proven metd for all to use.
Sun corals are in the genus Tubastraea , commonly 5 species. Micrantha (black sun coral), faulkneri (orange color), coccinea(orange, bushy look), aurea (golden color), diaphana (darker tissue).
Common locations on the reef: under overhangs, at the entrance of caves, moderate to high flow regions.
They do not depend on photosysnthesis which means they must be fed! They are not stressed under light/ without light. in other words, u can place them anywhere in your tank, with the only concern being the "water flow" only.
Thus, it is said to be the easiest and most fun coral to keep.
These are the following reasons whereby the corals do not "bloom" in your tank:
1) they were already starved and have no more energy to capture food
2) congratulations, you have a low nutrient tank.
3) the flow areas in your tank are limited and food does not reach the coral at all.
4) the coral was badly collected and they are dying. (sun corals are not commercially farmed)
Whatever the reasons, these following pics demonstrate the way to revive the "never open before" sun coral in your tank.
1) unopened sun coral
2) put into a container of any size, preferably longitudinal
3) frozen cyclopeez
4) add a generous pinch into the container
5) place into the quarantine tank. (the importance of qt again)
place the coral in this qt for 12 hours. it shud "open" up a little by now.
When it opens up already, it is ready to be placed back into the main display tank. only then, u can feed freshly hatched brine shrimp.
my recommended best food is the frozen cyclopeez.
ok, cheerz and happy experimenting. in the next issue, i will demo other things like fraggin techniques, growth patterns, lighting and flow regimes.
be sure to tune in.