Cich-O
20-07-2002, 11:14 PM
Hello folks,
Here are some excellent tips from Mojo, the admin of Aquaria Central (http://www.aquariacentral.com/). This guy takes some great pics (check out his fish pics at http://www.aquamojo.com/pics.html) & I have been hanging on to his every word in order to improve on my fish-photograpy skills.
Fish photography tips by Mojo
Here's a post I made on another web site regarding taking photos of fish. The reference was to "using or NOT using a flash". The previous poster said it's best not to use a flash. I thought it may be useful to those here that wish to photo their loved ones...er...fish. ;)
I disagree. I use a flash on all of my fish photos. As Matt pointed out, holding the camera at a slight angle (doesn't need to be as severe as 45 degree) helps in minimizing the flash flare on the glass.
Opulent is correct in steadying the camera for non flash photography. Film speed is measured in ASA. The lower the number the slower the film. The slower the film the better the resoultion and color. This is not as important today with the advent of some of the film available today as it was say 20 years ago. The quality is still good with some of the higher speed films...but there is a trade off.
Digital cameras as well as single lens reflect (SLR) cameras (uses film) use a shutter speed that corresponds with the speed of the film for exposing the photo. If you have a slower film you will need a wider aperature f2 to get in more light. The bigger the aperature the smaller the "range of focus". The aperature is simply the size of the "hole" the lens opens to let in the light. Range of focus is how much of the picture field will be in focuse. For example at f2 you might have a half inch in front and a half inch in back of the subject that will be crisp. With a smaller aperature(f 22) you may have everything from one foot in front and behind. The wide aperature generally lets the camera record at a slower shutter speed. That's why the picture blurs if the fish moves. The camera is still recording the image. A narrower aperature allows the camera to stop action or movement. Most flash photography synchs with the camera at a shutter speed of 1/125th of a second.
The real problem that I see is that the majority of cameras rely heavily on the "automatic" features of the camera in not only the flash, but also the focusing. When you focus your camera, you look through the viewfinder and either turn the barrel of the lens (SLR's) or push down the button half way while the camera automatically focus's. Most cameras use a center weighted function which allows the camera to take an average of the distance and adjust the lens accordingly. Because ot the relatively short distance to the subject in the fish tank, if the fish moves even a half inch the focus could be soft. I use the spot focus feature of the camera to focus the lens. This forces the camera to focus on the exact area I point the camera. The camera compensates for any movement by refocusing immediately before tripping the shutter.
Another problem commonly faced by people using flash photography is the aotomatic flash feature in the newer cameras. When you trip the shuuter the flash goes out to the subject illuminates it and bounces back to the lens of the camera. The flash uses a thyrister that tells it when to stop letting out the amount of light needed to illuminate the object it just "bounced" off. Remember we are talking speed of light here...it's a bit more complicated, but you get the point.
If you focus on the tank and take the photo the flash goes out and in some cases bounces off the glass giving you that reflection...which is basically the light bouncing back into the lens That's why you angle the camera. If you have a zoom or better yet a digital zoom you can stand back from the tank and zoom in to the subject. This along with the angle of the camera will better illuminate the fish. Not too sharp an angle. It will distort the picture...like looking at someone through a thick piece of crystal.
Well, I do go on don't I? Probably the best tip would be to take a lot of pictures. The more practice, the better.
One thing to add...If you DO sit and wait, the fish will slowly come around and about. You can try putting a little food in the tank. They have a tendency to let "hunger" kick in and forget you are there. Tripods work. Most digital cameras have a remote trip function for the shutter. Using the flash just takes practice.
HTH.
Here are some excellent tips from Mojo, the admin of Aquaria Central (http://www.aquariacentral.com/). This guy takes some great pics (check out his fish pics at http://www.aquamojo.com/pics.html) & I have been hanging on to his every word in order to improve on my fish-photograpy skills.
Fish photography tips by Mojo
Here's a post I made on another web site regarding taking photos of fish. The reference was to "using or NOT using a flash". The previous poster said it's best not to use a flash. I thought it may be useful to those here that wish to photo their loved ones...er...fish. ;)
I disagree. I use a flash on all of my fish photos. As Matt pointed out, holding the camera at a slight angle (doesn't need to be as severe as 45 degree) helps in minimizing the flash flare on the glass.
Opulent is correct in steadying the camera for non flash photography. Film speed is measured in ASA. The lower the number the slower the film. The slower the film the better the resoultion and color. This is not as important today with the advent of some of the film available today as it was say 20 years ago. The quality is still good with some of the higher speed films...but there is a trade off.
Digital cameras as well as single lens reflect (SLR) cameras (uses film) use a shutter speed that corresponds with the speed of the film for exposing the photo. If you have a slower film you will need a wider aperature f2 to get in more light. The bigger the aperature the smaller the "range of focus". The aperature is simply the size of the "hole" the lens opens to let in the light. Range of focus is how much of the picture field will be in focuse. For example at f2 you might have a half inch in front and a half inch in back of the subject that will be crisp. With a smaller aperature(f 22) you may have everything from one foot in front and behind. The wide aperature generally lets the camera record at a slower shutter speed. That's why the picture blurs if the fish moves. The camera is still recording the image. A narrower aperature allows the camera to stop action or movement. Most flash photography synchs with the camera at a shutter speed of 1/125th of a second.
The real problem that I see is that the majority of cameras rely heavily on the "automatic" features of the camera in not only the flash, but also the focusing. When you focus your camera, you look through the viewfinder and either turn the barrel of the lens (SLR's) or push down the button half way while the camera automatically focus's. Most cameras use a center weighted function which allows the camera to take an average of the distance and adjust the lens accordingly. Because ot the relatively short distance to the subject in the fish tank, if the fish moves even a half inch the focus could be soft. I use the spot focus feature of the camera to focus the lens. This forces the camera to focus on the exact area I point the camera. The camera compensates for any movement by refocusing immediately before tripping the shutter.
Another problem commonly faced by people using flash photography is the aotomatic flash feature in the newer cameras. When you trip the shuuter the flash goes out to the subject illuminates it and bounces back to the lens of the camera. The flash uses a thyrister that tells it when to stop letting out the amount of light needed to illuminate the object it just "bounced" off. Remember we are talking speed of light here...it's a bit more complicated, but you get the point.
If you focus on the tank and take the photo the flash goes out and in some cases bounces off the glass giving you that reflection...which is basically the light bouncing back into the lens That's why you angle the camera. If you have a zoom or better yet a digital zoom you can stand back from the tank and zoom in to the subject. This along with the angle of the camera will better illuminate the fish. Not too sharp an angle. It will distort the picture...like looking at someone through a thick piece of crystal.
Well, I do go on don't I? Probably the best tip would be to take a lot of pictures. The more practice, the better.
One thing to add...If you DO sit and wait, the fish will slowly come around and about. You can try putting a little food in the tank. They have a tendency to let "hunger" kick in and forget you are there. Tripods work. Most digital cameras have a remote trip function for the shutter. Using the flash just takes practice.
HTH.