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15-08-2006, 09:59 AM | #51 |
Dragon
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Point the rainbar towards the glass with the flow slightly upwards. This way you can create some surface turbulence for oxygen to get dissolved into the water as well. Just becareful that you don't point it too high that the water comes out! Don't want to create a fountain, hehehe
Next thing is, you should get some ceramic rings as biological media for the filter. Last edited by cheetf; 15-08-2006 at 10:04 AM. |
15-08-2006, 01:05 PM | #52 | |
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i have ceramic rings intially... then, i dunnoe is it i buy not good quality or sumting, the rings causes the water to have very fine particles floating ard... aft i remove, water cleared in a few hours... can advice that? |
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15-08-2006, 10:09 PM | #53 |
Dragon
Join Date: Aug 2005
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You could try washing the rings a few times in running water and then also run the filter in a bucket. I am sure that eventually the bits will settle. Better idea to have the rings as biological media than just sponges.
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15-08-2006, 10:46 PM | #54 |
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Sorry, hijack your thread.
I'm actually thinking of getting an Eheim also. Currently using an internal filter in my 2 feet tank. Take up space only... Some questions about Eheim filters (very newbie ): 1) What is the backwash feature for the classic line about? 2) What is self-priming? Is it the ability to start itself after you assemble/clean it? And some more general questions: 3) Let's say you turn off the filter, without dismantling it, can it start by itself again when you turn it on? Or need to prime again (assuming no priming features)? I'm asking this because I usually turn off the filter when I'm feeding my fishes. They eat finish liao then I start the filter again. 4) Let's say when you stop the filter to change the sponge...When you disconnect the inlet/outlet hoses, does the water go everywhere? Or is this what the taps are for? 5) I often read about ppl changing the sponge after months and months of use...Doesn't that clog up the filter and make the water output "slower"? Currently that's how I gauge if I need to clean my internal filter, by feeling the output pressure. 6) If I need to slow the flow, should it be on the "in" or the "out" tube? Somemore mentioned it once...I can't remember. I think there's a good chance I'd need to slow the flow for a 2 feet tank. 7) Do they use some special sponge or just the $2 one big pack type? Lastly, any other features/tips I need to look out for? Sorry if some of the qns are very "duhz". I've only had experiences with powerhead/overhead filters and internal filters. I'm currently considering the Ecco 2232. Anyone using it can comment? |
15-08-2006, 11:03 PM | #55 | |
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1) i dunnoe... 2) Priming is to create a vaccum in the cannister so as to suck in water for the motor to start pumping water out. if dun have, more work lor. 3) shldn't be a problem... i tryied that... as long as the Inlet and Outlet is still in water... 4) taps are to prevent the water frm going everywhere. but i have a solution for this. a) When u wanna clean or sumting, leave the inlet out of water and let the cannister filter suck in air, until a point when water is no longer pumping out. b) then, switch off. c) lift the whole cannister up and do a "pouring motion to pour water into the tank thru' the outlet. d) open the cannister and do watever u wanna. troublesum hor... if u got money. just buy lor. 5) this one i aso wanna know. 6) slow flow. if u have taps, turn the OUTLET. not the inlet. 7) to me is the same. got one thin layer of sponge is black color one. that one different, is active carbon. so there are my pte ltd answers... some expert can add on? |
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15-08-2006, 11:08 PM | #56 |
Dragon
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1) Not sure what the backwash feature is about.
2) Self priming should mean that the filter is able to start itself. 3) If you are going to turn off the filter for just a short while to feed the fish you shouldn't need to prime the filter again 4) For the 2213 usually if you don't have any taps then you might face such a problem 5) Not sure what you are asking but if the filter clogs up it naturally slows down. However if you have a more powerful filter than required then you might not see it. 6) If you are worried about the flow then you can always point the filter at the glass. Personally I don't see the difference where you put the tap to reduce the flow 7) Normally a special sponge but you can modify it by cutting one to shape like Mr Chan of NA. |
16-08-2006, 01:16 AM | #57 |
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Thanks cheetf and rb for your answers.
If you guys could just take a look at http://www.eheimasiapacific.com/Engl...ages/chart.jpg What's carbon ceramic bearing and high quality ceramic shaft? Is that the part of the motor? And it seems that when you buy the filter, the box doesn't come with everything you need, like taps and stuff. What else could an Eheim filter need other than the taps for controlling water flow? |
16-08-2006, 09:04 AM | #58 |
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Oh yeah, and how do you actually pronounce "Eheim"?
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16-08-2006, 10:14 AM | #59 |
Dragon
Join Date: Aug 2005
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Yes basically part of the impeller. (The moving part that drives the water)
Normally depending on the set you buy, you might need to add taps and biological media such as biorings and bioballs. I think it's Ee-Hi-eM.(try saying it a few times fast) |
16-08-2006, 07:26 PM | #60 | |
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