Crowntail FAQ

Hi All

Mod : can place this thread into your FAQ

Creating this thread for ppl to know more abt crowntails . Here are some of the qns I have ask Eddy & Joyta :

maintain Crowntail

Hi Eddy & Jotya

Here are some qns that maybe you can share with us :

1) what do you look out for when you start jarring the fries, meaning which are the contest quality ones, the average ..etc

2) After selection, what tank sizes do they live in? does the contest quality ones live in bigger tanks ..1ft tank etc?

3) Do you put other substances into the water.... etc salt , conditioner? What is the quantity used per tank?

4) what is the water changing procedures? how much water change, how often....

5) What type of food do you feed the bettas ?

6) What is a contest quality CT. Do you have a pix to explain to us ? the spacing of rays , webbings....etc


7) Just wondering, what is considered a good CT female? Some ppl say those females that looks like combtail are actually good ones, while others says those with thick even rays...


8) Do you let the contest quality fries flare or do you just let them swim without opponents in the big tanks

9) Do you train these contest bettas? Heard frm Kelson, there is this long self make plastic bag to train their stamina...

Currently I'm using a big pail , place in a 1.5L bottle with a betta in there. So tt the betta with swim against the density of the water...

10) Is it true that salt can actually thicken the rays of the CT. So far so good for me ..seems to work

11) Are you able to uncurl the rays of the CTs


cheers
Malcom

Hi Malcom,
let me try to answer the best to my knowledge
your questions :

1. When jarring the one month old fry I am looking for SEX. Only male goes into the jar. It is unnoticeable that the fry is contest quality or not at this stage. I usually put in 2 lt cyl jar.

2. Yes, the contest quality lives in spacious tank... enjoy his large room all by himself... You can make the selection when he is 2-2.5 month old. The size of the tank I have is 40x60x40cm

3. I age the conditioned water 24 hours before use. Add salt (1 table spoon for 10 lt), cattapa leaf (1 big sundried leaf), and blitch icht (metylen blue)

4. I change the water totally every 3 days and siphon every day and replace 25% of water using the aged water.

5. Always entertain your contest quality betta with high protein live food such as daphnia, mosquito larva or blood worm twice a day.

6. Contest quality crowntail betta has even spacing of rays, neat, no broken or curly one in caudal, dorsal or ventral fin. In Indonesia the color category usually goes into solid color, combination color and cambodian.

Maintaining show quality betta

Well you have done the right things then...

7. Good CT female: - thick even rays is better than combtail. Look for wide double ray branch. People here call it SERIT BALOK. But the most important thing the belly shape. long and round belly is better than short round belly, because of its volume. She can carry a lot of eggs.

8. Sure, let the contest quality betta flares as often as possible, make a little hole at the divider, so he can see the opponent once a while

9. Yes, we train them before contest. But not using the long plactic bag. This one id for fighter training. For beauty contest, you need to let him flare to many different color and size of the opponent, because you never know who will be the next aquarium at the show. If you have pretty betta and he afraid to flare, he will not show his beauty right?

10. Yes.

11. To uncurl it is difficult, cut it and let it grow again. But try not to make it curl, by puuting him in a big tank, keeping the water clean and carefully transfering him to the show. Using a cup to take it our the aquarium and put it in again, don't use net. If no cup, use your hand palm.

So that's it for now...

Have a betta day,

Joty



Here is the picture of my winning RED Crowntail at AQUARAMA 2003

Eddy Chandra
New Member

Registered: Nov 2003
Location: Germany
Posts: 7 my answer about your question

1. i select all the good fries (Male and Female ) in to the 1,5 liter Tank after already 2 month ( lately than in Indonesia,because they grow slowly here than in Indonesia

2. A Contest Quality Betta i keep at the 4,5 l Tanks..because i dont have enough space in my fish room.

3. i use the Watter directly from Tap..and sometimes i use Easy life or Cattapa Leaves...if they dont feel well...but normally they feel always okay,also in the winter the water temperatur around 18-19 Degree

4. I change the water 50 % every 2 days with siphon and Totally 100 % after 1 Week. i do also the same to Quality Contest fish

5. I give Pellets, Frozen Foods like White Worms,Blood Worms, mosquito larva and Big Artemia ,also live Foods like Tubifex and Blood Worms .once a week i dont feed my Betta.

6. Like Joty Wrote

7. Good CT female: - thick even rays (up 2 Rays) and spread wide (180 Degree )

8. the same like joty do....almost the indonesian people do like that.

9. i keep a contest betta in big Tank...and i train with the Female and other colors betta male .i put them in a small Plastic Bottle and put it in to the Aquarium like i want to spawn the betta

10. sorry,i don´t know...because i don´t use salt...so i don´t have experience about that

11. for me..i let them spawn, or let him like what he is...


__________________
Eddy Chandra
Member of Inbs
www.betta-house.de

Hi Eddy

I always wanted to know how well betta can adapted to cold weather condition, especially CT. Do they get sick like white spots..etc cos of the cold?

cheers
Malcom


[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by



3. i use the Watter directly from Tap..and sometimes i use Easy life or Cattapa Leaves...if they dont feel well...but normally they feel always okay,also in the winter the water temperatur around 18-19 Degree

cool lar...good info....

we do need more info on crowntail....

This threads is what we have discuss before:

1) Uncurling Technique
http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/sh...threadid=93145

2) Betta Barrack
http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/sh...threadid=92768

3) The Pail Method
http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/sh...threadid=81413

4) How MGCT is developed :

http://www.bettaclub.org.sg/forum/t...p?TOPIC_ID=1051
http://www.bettaclub.org.sg/forum/t...p?TOPIC_ID=1708

5) How to determine double ray and four ray

http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/sh...0&pagenumber=1

6) How To Identify KCT
http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/sh...0&pagenumber=1

Very good info

Hi...Malcom....
i think, the Fishes are like the People...they can adapt also the Situation,where they live...but not directly/with Shock...you can not from Water Temperature 28 Degree and direct put them in to 18 Degree...they will of course die....but if the Temperature sink slowly..i think they dont have problem to adapt it....since my experience...i never find my Fishes Die because the Cold Wheather (18-19 Degree )...and seldom sicks until now....
about White Spot? i think i got only 2 Times...but not died...since already 1 year i never found my Fishes Died because sick,but maybe because already too Old.

Just Info: Betta live normally in PH Water 6 - 7,5....but i can not get the Water PH like this Condition....My PH Water is 8,4...so i let them to try my hard PH Water ,but they can live healty at this PH Water also my Discus Fishes...i think because they can adapt the Water

Eddy Chandra
www.betta-house.de

[SilverStallion]

Hi,

will post it up when i'm free ok?

Angel

Hi Eddy

very interesting to know how they adapt well to cold