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Old 19-04-2014, 09:57 PM   #11
arowanarock88
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The one on left seem worst or more serious SBP than the other ..lower water and continue the Epsom..

RED will have to be patient, and tanning seem like a must when it reach a certain size
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Old 19-04-2014, 10:50 PM   #12
nel
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Originally Posted by Dave57 View Post
Remove that dead frog. You don't want your fish to be sick again.
the frog is not dead.....yet....
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Old 20-04-2014, 10:11 PM   #13
Lex
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seriously too young for bf, at this stage you need to feed him something that will not harm his internals.. also, dead frog should be removed within the hour nice aro otherwise, hopefully will develop into something special... watch out for plj.. cheers bud.
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Old 21-04-2014, 06:59 PM   #14
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Bros, if you have watched the whole video, you'll see that the frog is not dead. It's temporarily stunned so that the aro can eat it without having to wrestle much.

SBP Btw, is not "swimming back posture" as mentioned by one of the bro. It's actually Swim Bladder Problem.

Previously i use to lower the water, add Epsom salt and keep the temperature at 32 deg Celsius. Then I realise that i've got other problems. A smaller water volume means that nitrates are more concentrated. Coupled with the warmer water means less dissolved oxygen. I ended up have a jumpy fish with no so good appetite.

Both had severe cases of SBP before this. But now very slight. All it took was Epson salt, twice weekly 30% WC and feeding on alternate days. That's why I give "small" bullfrog. FYI, bullfrog are injected with a small amount of intestinal anti-biotics to help with the recovery.
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Old 23-04-2014, 11:50 AM   #15
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it seem like the bullfrog is big.. afraid that he hv difficult time to eat it
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Old 23-04-2014, 03:02 PM   #16
matthew
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did the sbp occur before or after the purchase?
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Old 23-04-2014, 03:52 PM   #17
mnhash
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it seem like the bullfrog is big.. afraid that he hv difficult time to eat it
No bro, i've been feeding it bullfrog of that size over a month now. It can cope.

Bought it with severe SBP. Paid less than one fish for 2 fishes. Haha.
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Old 23-04-2014, 04:19 PM   #18
matthew
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No bro, i've been feeding it bullfrog of that size over a month now. It can cope.

Bought it with severe SBP. Paid less than one fish for 2 fishes. Haha.
in tat case, good luck in treating the sbp.
SBP due to trapped air can be treated easily if cured and detected early.
SBP due to inflammation or natural born defect of the swimming bladder cannot be cured easily and reoccurence is inevitable.
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Old 23-04-2014, 05:03 PM   #19
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hi mnhash, I would strongly suggest you lower the water till only have 2" above the aro.. made the aro try to swim parallel and put espom salt. treating SBP may take weeks to a few months.

also.. white treating for SBP, try not to feed big solid foods or try to feed only every 2-3 days once..

last, pls try remove uneaten food immediately, base on your video your filter system is just that bubble with foam, I dont think it can take any uneaten food left unattended.
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Old 23-04-2014, 08:21 PM   #20
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hi mnhash, I would strongly suggest you lower the water till only have 2" above the aro.. made the aro try to swim parallel and put espom salt. treating SBP may take weeks to a few months.

also.. white treating for SBP, try not to feed big solid foods or try to feed only every 2-3 days once..

last, pls try remove uneaten food immediately, base on your video your filter system is just that bubble with foam, I dont think it can take any uneaten food left unattended.
Just to correct you bro, that's because you don't see the 2 canister inlet and outlets.

And believe me, having my water level high has done me more good than lowering it to like 4". Lower water volume means i'll have higher concentration of ammonia/nitrite/nitrate if there's any to begin with. Lower water level also means i'll have difficulty priming/running my canister filters. And lower water level also increase the tendency of my fish leaping about. For me, this current method works. I've seen the fishes improve from a 60 degree tilt 24/7 to it being able to swim normally most of the time and occasional 20 degree head stand.

I have read threads on SBP which calls for lowering of water level and setting heater to 30 degress celsius. And trust me, it's all unnecessary stress for the arowana because the lower and warmer water can't hold as much dissolved oxygen.

As unique in character as arowanas are, maybe the same goes for certain diseases, and there need not necessarily be one solution. Just speaking through my own experience rather than the experience of others. Hope you don't take any offence bro.
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