Fish tank for marine

Hi there i need some advice please help.

i am planing to get a in built top over flow 3 ft tank.

i will like to ask is it better to get a tank with in build over flow (the over flow system is at behind)
or is it better to use a powerful external filter.

we my home does not have the space of a sump tank :'(

so there are only 2 choice but i will like to get a marine tank.

is there any nice advice?

[stash]

better if can use 2 external filter... one for only coral chips and another one for carbon and filter wool..

but u also need chiller if keeping corals...

i always advise my customers to get a sump setup... easier to maintain and water wont spill if need to open the canister!

if power cut u might need to prime the canister... if run dry canister can overheat and burn... money down the drain...

overall u need space for return pump. skimmer set(most important) and chiller pump (optional).

overall your first purchase of tank sets and pumps is a killer but on the long run priceless... a tank lasts a min of 5yrs to 10yrs(i still have a customer keeping a 15 yr old tankset..its a 6, 2.5, 2.5.

my frank opinion... better to spend now than to spend more money for changes later

[KaLiB]

What are the exact dimensions of the 3ft tank? An in-built overflow is not so practical(but can still be done) in tanks that are small(Eg. 3'x1.5'x1.5', 3'x2'x2'). It would reduce the total available space, Eg. 3'x1.5'x1.5' maybe reduced to say 2'x1.5'x1.5'. If the tank size in mind is less than 3'x3'(length x width), i would advise using an external filter or using an alternative filtration method instead.

An external filter can be used in place of an inbuilt overflow. It allows you to maximize the space in the display tank. However, an external
fitler would need regular maintenance to prevent choking. It can be quite a hassle to clean the filter regularly. Having a choked filter can result in the filter becoming a source of nitrates.
A benefit of using an external filter, as what stash has mentioned, is the flexibility of using two filters. One for biological filtration, the other for chemical filtration. If your choice is external filters, do get one from a reliable brand as i've used some cheap ones before and they leak after sometime.

I would like to suggest an alternative to these two choices. It is the modified Berlin Method. This method relies on the sandbed and liverocks to carry out the filtration. The only equipment you need for the filtration system would be a protein skimmer. A downside to this sort of setup would be you can't run any chemical filtration without getting additional equipment(eg. Fluidized Reactor or an external filter) since you mentioned you don't have space for a sump. Another problem with such a setup is that without a surface skimmer attachment(having an inbuilt overflow also serves a similar purpose), dissolved organics can form a layer on the water surface, preventing gaseous exchange. You would have to manually scoop the water surface to remove this layer.

I'm running a modified berlin filtration system in my 4x2x2 FOWLR setup. The only additional equipment is that i have a sump so i do put some filter wool there for mechanical filtration. I only use liverocks and sand for biological filtration. I don't use any chemical filter media at present but the presence of a sump allows me to add chemical filter media inside when needed without having to buy new equipment.

Ultimately, a sump is still the most suitable choice for filtration in a marine tank. As due to space limitation, you aren't able to have a sump, then we would have to settle for alternatives like in-built overflow or external filters.

live rock [with good water circulation], live sand, macro algae, and a protein skimmer - the best filtration methods in a SW setup. i would advise against canisters because they contribute to nitrate problems in SW. a good amount of live rock, some macro, and a hang on skimmer will be enough for a light to decently stocked 3' tank. even if you run a sump it is recommended to fill it with live rock or live rock rubble instead of commercial media like biohome, ceramic rings.

Strongly advise to get a sump tank otherwise "teething" problems will surface if external cannisters are used.

Dont you think that having a HOT skimmer doesn't interface well with the surrounding furnishing?

[davidw]

I think the ideal set up would depend very much on what u intend to keep. If bio-load not excessive I think u can opt for built-in overflow (if u are locating it at the back of the tank, try use a black tinted glass so the display looks nicer). I would also recommend deep sand bed and plenty of liverocks in the display area as additional filteration. Protein skimmer to me is optional depending on bioload, which u can add later depending on water parameters. U will need a chiller if u intend to keep corals (but u can also dispense with it by having a cooling fan instead provided topping up with freshwater daily is not a hassle to you).

thankyou for all the suggestion.
Some of the tank set up is suggested by a aunt at china town level 2.

Tank:
=====================
my Tank size will be using black tinted glass

3ft(L) by 1.5ft(W) by (1.5 or 1.8 H)

so after the built-in overflow back filter about will be
3ft(L) by 1.2ft(W) by (1.5 or 1.8 H)

My Tank will be inside an aircon room temperature about 23 to 25 most of the time. incase if temperature cannot reach 25 degree i will be using fan.
as i am ok to top up water every time.


Life Stock:
======================
Fish may be smaller type about 2 inch X 10 eg(clown or those blue colour small fish etc)
bigger fish 4 inch 1 or 2

2 to 4 live coral (should be those easier to keep type)


Rock and Sand:
=================
Land scape with live rock

as per davidw is 2.5 inch of sand bed ok?
thinking of getting c-3 or c-2 coral chips, or maybe white normal sand or any good suggestion?


Filteration :
===========
The filteration i still thinking of putting built-in overflow back filter for mechnical & Carbon (carbon and filter wool & Cermeic rings etc or open to suggestion), then can attach a protein skimmer behind.
but i dont know how it looks haha. the chinatown aunt say it should be able to put it behind . . .

i still got one additional Eheim 2028 can use for bio filteration can attach to the end of the ending process of the in built filter. i got 2 kg of bio home plus and can add some more others open to suggestion.
i think when i use Eheim 2028 as bio filteration filter i can keep maintenance to minimum.

I also think the best is still sump tank . . . still hoping to clear some space for it but quite hard as i want the tank to be in my room.


Light
=====
T5 light 2 blue, hmm then 2 tube white or red i still dont know . . . any suggestion?

is there any good suggestion? as i never come accross friend have marine fish.



All my things are just planning haven proceed to buy
Thankyou so much man.

[KaLiB]

Tank:
You may want to reconsider with the type of glass used, the black tinted glass is likely to ruin the colours of the fish and corals. Unless when viewed from the front, it is relatively clear.

Since your keen to keep corals, you may have to use a fan to help. The aircon would most likely not be able to cool the tank to the desired range. I am using a 2x1x1 which can only be cooled to 27-28deg with the aircon switched on and set to 22deg. A 3ft tank would require more energy to cool, so there's a likellihood the aircon alone won't cool the water down sufficienctly. For corals, a water temp of between 26-28deg is sufficient, you won't need to cool the tank to 25deg.

Life Stock:
For the small fish, you may want to consider chromis or cardinalfish instead. These are relatively easy to keep and peaceful, clownfish can get territorial and are best kept singly or in pairs. The blue fish you mentioned are most likely damsels, i would advice not to keep them as they can get too aggressive, making new additions impossible.

Rock and Sand:
Don't use coral chips for the sandbed, detritous and stuff get stuck in there and it would become a source of nitrates. When i started, i didn't know and use C-5 coral sand for my 2ft tank, it trapped alot of detritous and i constantly have high nitrate problems. I would suggest using finer C-2 coral sand instead. You can add a thin layer of course sand/coral chips on top of the sandbed to prevent it from stirring(more on that later). The thickness is up to you, but 2.5" would be fine. Some of us opt for thin sandbeds of around 2", while some go for deep sandbeds(DSB) of 3"-5".

Filteration :
If your using carbon in your filtration system, double check and make sure it is suitable for marine aquarium use. Some carbon are only for freshwater use. I would suggest not to use the ceramic rings, these can get choked with detritous easily and become a source of nitrates. Since you mentioned you got biohome, these would make a much better filter media since they have anaerobic zones which allow dentrification to take place. You won't have dentrification taking place in ceramic rings. As an alternative, you can put small pieces of liverock in the filter compartment for filtration.

With the liverocks in the main tank, you can forgo the Eheim 2028 for biological filtration. The sandbed and liverocks alone make a very good biological filter.

Light:
There are two types of T5 in the local market, high output and normal output. Since your into corals, get the high output version(For a 3ft tank, it would be 39W). 4 tubes is a good choice as this gives you the option of going into more light demanding corals in future as you progress along the hobby. If budget is of a concern here, you can start with 2 tubes first. This would be sufficient for the easier corals like mushroom corals, star polyps, zooanthoids.

For mixing of colours, there isn't really any hard and fast rule but i would prefer providing as wide a spectrum of light as possible. You can try combinations like: 2 blue 1white 1red, 1blue 2white 1red etc.. I would keep the red to at most 1 bulb or don't use it at all. If only 2 bulbs are used, then IMO, the best is to stick to 1 white 1blue and don't use any red.

Additional:
In addition to the equipment, you would also need to look into water movement. It is essential in the marine aquarium as some corals need water movement, and water movement helps aerate the water. To achieve this, wavemakers are used. Powerheads also can achieve the same purpose but are significantly less efficient at moving water and use more power(more heat). A wavemaker cost more than a powerhead, but in the long run, the savings in electricity would be worth it.

The difference between wavemaker and powerheads is, wavemakers are designed to move large amounts of water at a slower speed while powerheads are used to pump a jet of water at high velocity. Hence, this makes wavemakers alot more efficient in circulating water and also as to why they consume less power.

A downside to water movement would be the stirring of sandbed, especially fine sandbeds. This effect is countered by adding a fine layer of coarse sand/coral chips on top of the sandbed.

thank you Kalib

ya i think cannot use C-3 and above.
i also do experiance some problem in my aferican fish tank. i used C-10 as the fish shop uncle recomanded. end up when i feed fish if the food drop inside the fish cannot eat it and end up cause more pollute.

this time need research more and buy things correctly.

[KaLiB]

No problem, just doing my bit to help.

Do take your time to research before plunging into this hobby, patience + research are two very important steps to take for a successful and enjoyable hobby.