Arofanatics Fish Talk Forums  

Go Back   Arofanatics Fish Talk Forums > General Aquatic Forums > Flowerhorn Forum > Articles, Resources & FAQs

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-04-2009, 09:35 AM   #1
KAO LUO
Endangered Dragon
 
KAO LUO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 96,529
Default Frequently Asked Questions for Flowerhorn Hobbyist

Hope this Can help

“V” sharp




"U" Sharp


KAO LUO is offline  
Old 20-04-2009, 01:26 PM   #2
icy_windkin
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Frequently Asked Questions for Flowerhorn Hobbyist

Start off with some of the suggested LFS for newbie

East

No.7 Pasir ris farmway 2, D3 Plot 34

Tom Rayden.
1 Pasir Ris Coast Industrial Park 1, Lot 32
Singapore 518235
HP: 81826579


West

Ah Hock's place
65, Sungei Tengah road

Rainbow Aquarium ( not much FH stocks )
78, Sungei Tengad road


Qian Hu Fish Farm
71, Jalan Lekar, Singapore 698950

Clementi florist and aquarium
Blk 328, Clementi Ave 2
Singapore 120328

Hong Yang Aquarium n pets accessories
Blk 306, CCK Ave 4, #01-681

North

AF Flowerhorn lobang king, Kao Luo. Please PM him for details

Aqua Star Trading
Blk 934 Yishun Central 1 #01-51/53/55
Singapore 760934

Block 618 Yishun Ring Road
Singapore 760618.

South
None at the moment

Central
None at the moment

JB

Shayne
91,jalan glasiar,taman tasek. johor bharu
Tel : 98565048.

If fellow members have any contribution, feel free to PM Ong88

Last edited by Ong88; 20-07-2011 at 09:17 PM. Reason: field report by Icy.
 
Old 20-04-2009, 11:36 PM   #3
icy_windkin
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Flowerhorn Fish anatomy produced previously by bro Edmund Tan

 
Old 26-04-2009, 07:14 PM   #4
icy_windkin
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Flowerhorn FAQs
  • Can flowerhorn fish be comm. with other fish?
Flowerhorn Fish also know as cichlasoma, are from the family of Cichlids which are known to be territorial. However, fellow hobbyists had shared experience of successful comm. with other types of fish. Nevertheless, due to the territorial nature, we encourage hobbyists to rear flowerhorn in individual tank. One point to note, if flowerhorn are to be comm. with other fishes, it is advisable to provide ample tank space for fish territory to be established.
  • What are the water conditions required to rear flowerhorn?
Flowerhorn are best kept in water PH level of 6.5 ~ 7.3. To achieve this, many hobbyists have used Coral chip in their tank filtration. For water temperature, the preferred range is from 26oC to 28oC. If the temperature gets too low, the fish is prone to white spots
  • How to improve Color, Kok and pearl?
The key to bring out the fish’s potential is to maintain excellent water parameters. Food has been used to enhance the color of the fish. This food usually contains Astaxanthin, the pigment which exist in crab and prawn and turn them red when they are cooked. As for the kok and pearl enhancement, there isn’t concrete evidence to prove that fish food can do the job. They are dependent on the genes of the fish.

However, the following information may serve useful in selecting the right food for your fish

I. Vitamin A – Increase immunity of the fish
II. Vitamin B1 – Prevent infection of diseases, esp intestinal infection
III. Vitamin B2 – Improve fish growth
IV. Vitamin C – Maintain the health of the fish
V. Vitamin D – Bone strengthening
VI. Vitamin E – Help growth and breeding
  • What is the best background color for fish?
Preferably blue, white or even nature theme background do help the fish to stabilize faster. Red can also be used as the tank background or base color. There are hobbyists who have been using black for its background to contrast against the fish’s pearls. However, if the fish is newly introduced to the tank, black color might actually stress the fish further.

Note. Part of the information provided here is extracted from the "Malaysia Cichlasoma HuaLuohan 2002" Published by Asia Medialine (M) SDN BHD. Please filter the information at your own discretion.
 
Old 26-04-2009, 07:23 PM   #5
icy_windkin
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Top 10 Myths About Flowerhorns
Top Ten Myths About Flowerhorns and Those Who Keep Them
1) Flowerhorns aren’t cichlids
FALSE - All of the fish used to create the Flowerhorn are from the family Cichlidae. Although they are - intentionally - different from what is found in nature, flowerhorns are "cichlids" every bit as much as the hybrid livebearers in the hobby are still "livebearers" or the (hybrid) tilapia available at your grocery store are "tilapia"

2) Flowerhorn keepers and breeders are irresponsible and only in it for the money
FALSE - Just like anything else you have ethical hobbyists and seller as well as unethical hobbyists and sellers. This problem is not isolated to the flowerhorn community. The vast majority of flowerhorn hobbyists keep and breed these fish because they like them. Don't kid yourselves that every person that keeps or breeds wild-type cichlids cares nothing about money. For every irresponsible hobbyist willing to sell poor quality flowerhorns as "trimacs" there are just as many (intentionally) mis-labled fish sold in the "traditional" hobby.

3) Flowerhorns destroy conservation of cichlids in the hobby and in the wild
FALSE - Responsible care and breeding of flowerhorns neither harms the conservation of cichlids in the hobby or the wild. As flowerhorns are - obviously and intentionally - different in appearance than wild-type cichlids, erroneously including them in a captive breeding project would be less likely than erroneously including a similar but different wild-type fish. In the wild, flowerhorns represent no greater threat to cichlid natural habitats than the many (irresponsibly) introduced non-native cichlids.

4) Flowerhorns are random creations or accidents
FALSE - While flowerhorns are the result of the hybridization (and line breeding) of more than one species of cichlid, this does not mean that flowerhorns are the result of random crosses of common cichlids. As an example, the Golden Monkey flowerhorn strain took 12 years to create. The more that the myth that randomly crossing one cichlid with another will result in something either attractive or valuable is dispelled, the less likely that less educated or more irresponsible hobbyists will attempt such crosses. Those who keep flowerhorns are often the first to discourage indiscriminate hybridization of cichlids.

5) Flowerhorn keepers only keep flowerhorns
FALSE - Many ACA members...and even more cichlid-keepers keep both flowerhorns and wild-type cichlids. A recent (unscientific) survey in the Central and South American forum of Monster Fish Keepers found that nearly as many hobbyists keep flowerhorns AND wild-type cichlids as those who ONLY keep wild-type cichlids.

6) Flowerhorns are a passing fad
FALSE - Flowerhorns are well-established in the hobby in both Asia and the United States. Evidence of the popularity of flowerhorns can be found in the activity and rate of growth of flowerhorn websites, the availability and high cost of quality flowerhorns on the market, and the number of traditional cichlid hobbyists who keep these fish.

7) Flowerhorn keepers aren’t advanced or serious hobbysist
FALSE - Proper maintenance of flowerhorns requires all of the skills required in keeping large, aggressive wild-type cichlids. While just about any hobbyist can keep a flowerhorn, not everyone can keep a Flowerhorn in show or breeding condition. Developing attractive strains of flowerhorns requires all of the expertise in genetics and husbandry that developing attractive captive strains of livebearers, bettas, angelfish, discus, goldfish, koi, and other ornamental fish has required...which is considerable

8) Flowerhorns are disfigured or dyed
FALSE - The vast majority of flowerhorns on the market are not physically manipulated with chemicals or surgery and the vast majority of flowerhorn hobbyists find mutilation of fish as reprehensible as the vast majority of those in the traditional cichlid hobby. While some flowerhorns are physically dyed, tattooed or otherwise mutilated, these activities are far from unique to flowerhorns.

9) Flowerhorn keepers don't care about conservation, education, or fellowship with other hobbyists
FALSE - Many who keep flowerhorns also keep wild-type species and classify themselves as "cichlidiots". Some are also members of cichlid associations, albeit some "in the closet" about the fish that they keep. I've yet to hear a responsible flowerhorn keeper seek to eliminate the availability of wild-type cichlids in either the hobby or the wild...although the opposite is not true of wild-type cichlid enthusiasts. Participation in flowerhorn forums and chat rooms will reveal an array of hobbyists of all levels of experience and a strong willingness to share experiences and tips to educate and help others. Flowerhorn keepers are more than willing to educate traditional hobbyists on the origins and care of the fish that they keep...as well as dispel the myths that others might have about them and the fish that they keep. The more that those in the traditional cichlid hobby isolate and erect barriers (often based on myths) between themselves and those who keep flowerhorns, the more that those who keep one type of fish or the other will lose out on opportunities for education and fellowship.

10) Flowerhorns are "bad" because they're different than what is found in the wild
IT DEPENDS - If flowerhorns are "bad" because they're different than what is found in the wild, all of the other "ornamental" fish in the hobby are "bad" because they also differ from what is in the wild. Cosmetic changes to wild-type fish, whether they're longer fins, more color, less color (albinism) or larger size - each would probably detract from their viability in the wild. If flowerhorns are "bad" then the vast majority of people who keep fish are keeping "bad" fish...and the available membership of an organization dedicated to fish that aren't "bad" is quite small.

Reference
The American Cichlid Association
http://acaforum.com/index.php?showtopic=3454&st=0

Disclaimer
The information provided only serve as a summary of fish hobbyists' experience towards Cichlid and flowerhorn. Filter at your own will
 
Old 26-04-2009, 07:27 PM   #6
icy_windkin
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Defects of Flowerhorn

Finnages:

Make sure that the finnages are not deformed. These include the dorsal, anal, tail and pectoral fins.

Some sellers have the habit of trimming the finnages, particularly the dorsal fin, in hope of fine-tuning its shape. Be aware that such practises may cause the fins to grow back crooked. The colourful markings of the FH helps to camouflage such defects when young. Depending on its severity, it may not be so apparent when the fish is still young but its effect will be amplified many fold when the fish grows to its adult size.

For the pectoral fins, it helps when you inspect it with the fish facing you. This allows you to see through the pectoral fins to ensure that all the fin rays are straight and not deformed.

Ensure that there are no unusual growths on the finnages.

The head:

Ensure that the head is not crooked to 1 side. This defect is most evident from the top view, you can also inspect it when the fish is facing you.


The body:

Ensure that the body (backbone) is straight. Sometimes, we can see that the body of the fish is not smooth. It looks like something protruding out of the fish's body. Such fishes may not have a straight body. This defect is most evident from the top view. Inspect the opposite side of the body as well. This defect is quite commonly observed in "short-body" specimens.

Contributed by Bro Cucumber
 
Old 26-04-2009, 07:33 PM   #7
icy_windkin
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Flower horn Do's and Don'ts
1. Don't leave Uneaten Food in your fish's home. Get your net and remove uneaten food after 5-10 minutes.

2. Don't Crowd Your Fish's Home. Your fish's home has a maximum amount of fish that it can sustain. There is a maximum bio-load that any system can handle. Bio-load is a fancy term for fish waste.

One inch of fish per gallon of water, is a good rule of thumb for beginners. If you are new to keeping fish, be conservative. When you feel like buying a new fish, first check your fish and your water quality.

3. Don't do too Much. Don't tear your fish's home completely apart. No big yearly cleaning of your fish's home is needed. Change some water twice a week. Once a month clean your fish's home. Don't change more than 20% of the water on one day unless you have catastrophe.

4. Don't Depend on Scavengers to keep your aquarium clean. Scavenger Fish and Ghost Shrimp will eat bits of food that sink to the bottom of your aquarium, and this will help improve the water quality. But scavengers will not clean a dirty aquarium.

5. Don't get an Aquarium and Fish at the Same Time. Get the new aquarium and equipment, take it home, read the instructions, set it all up, and let it run for three days or longer. Then get a few good starter fish.

6. Don't Have More than 1/4 Inch of Gravel. A Fish Bowl needs a layer of cultured gravel 1/4 of an inch thick, but an aquarium with an exterior power filter with a BIO-Wheel doesn't need any gravel. If you put gravel in your aquarium, keep it less than 1/4 of an inch thick, and stir it for a few seconds every day with your net to be sure the particles get swept up into your filter.

7. Don't get Impatient and Do too Much to Fast. Don't add too many new fish at one time. Get a few new fish. Watch them, see how they adjust to their new home, and enjoy them! Don't change too much water at one time. If your aquarium is dirty, do a small cleaning each day. Change 20% of the water each day, until your aquarium is clean and the water is clear.
8. Don't Contaminate Your Fish's Home. Be sure that everything that goes into your fish's water is not contaminated with soap, bleach, pesticides, or other chemicals. If you add ornaments such as rocks, gravel, or plastic plants, be sure they will not contaminate your fish's water.

Some rocks and gravel contain toxic minerals. Some plastic plants are not intended for use in water and may contaminate your fish's water. You'll avoid problems, if you'll shop in pet departments and buy items specifically labeled as being safe to use with pet fish.


Contributed by Bro Bryan
 
Old 14-06-2009, 11:33 PM   #8
icy_windkin
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Are white/pink Zebra Convict considered as Albino?

No, they are not considered as Albino. They fall under the family of Cichlid but different from flowerhorn. Further details can be found below. Thus beware of LFS offering them as flowerhorn

Alternative Name
Pink Zebra Cichlid Scientific Name: Cichasoma nigrofasciatum Basic Info
The Pink Convict is a color variation of the Black Convict and therefore they are the same in appearance with the exception of coloration. At maturity, the Pink Convict Cichlid will reach a size of four to six inches. Their bodies will be grayish green with shades of pink and black vertical bands. Females are more colorful than males with pinkish colors and orange scales on their sides and underbelly. Males have longer fins and a bump on their head. Males will also grow faster and larger than the females. z
Health
Besides watching it for destructive behavior, the Pink Convict Cichlid is fairly easy to care for. They should be kept in slightly acidic to neutral waters, with pH levels from six and a half to eight. They will thrive in waters with a temperature range from 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit. They should be given plenty of hiding places; they are generally more active this way. They also seem to do well if a small light is left on throughout the night. A 5-watt bulb should be sufficient, even for a large tank. Additionally they seem to do best in tanks with a lot of water movement. This is best achieved with additional water pumps. Extra filters do not really do the trick. The extra pumps should be turned off nightly. They should be fed vegetables, including spinach, zucchini, peas and lettuce. In addition, Pink Convict Cichlids should be fed live foods, including small live fish, bloodworms, glass worms, brine shrimp and tubifex worms. Frozen, freeze dried and tablet foods will also be accepted. As treats you can feed 1 mussel a month per fish. They should not be given more than that, however, as they can get fat. Breeding Pink Convict Cichlids will breed often. Some reports have said they breed as often as every two weeks. It has been reported that Pink Convicts reach sexual maturity quite early, and will start breeding when they are only an inch long! During spawning, females will grow an egg depositor near the anal fin. The Pink Convict Cichlid will lay their eggs in a dark hidden place and will care for the eggs and fry. However, Pink Convict Cichlids become extremely aggressive during spawning and other fish should be removed from the tank. Also, the female and male might need to be separated after the eggs are laid, due to fighting - though this is not always the case. It has been reported that adults will eat the fry after hatching, so it is important to keep them in another tank. But sometimes they only appear to be eating the fry. Both the mother and father will pick the fry up with their mouths to move them. If you decide to leave the fry with the adults, it is important to remove the fry after they have been free swimming for 3 to 6 days and put them in a separate tank or they will be eaten. The new tank should have the same water as the old tank and also place some of the rocks and other decorations from the original tank. They can be fed flake food that is crushed into a powder. They can be kept together for 1 year and then they should be moved into a less crowded tank.
Habitat
Fresh water fish
Behavior
The Pink Convict Cichlid, also known as the Pink Convict Cichlid makes a great addition to large fish tanks. They are a colorful addition to any cichlid tank. However, Pink Convict Cichlids are widely considered the street brawlers of the cichlid world and care must be taken when placing them with other fish. While beautiful, the Pink Convict Cichlid is a violent fish. The have been described by some as homicidal maniacs and rightly so. These fish are aggressive to just about every other fish, including its own species. If they are kept in a large tank with other large aggressive fish that can fend for themselves, they won't be too much of a bother. It is difficult to say which particular fish the Pink Convict Cichlid will be able to live with; it is more like a try and see situation. It has been reported that they can be kept with Labichromis 'yellow', and that they tend to be less aggressive when placed with this particular fish. They have also been reported to do well with Oscars, Firemouth Cichlids and Green Terrors, though not ones that are smaller than the Pink Cichlid. If you do put them in a tank with other fish, keep an eye on them. If they are beating up the other fish, you should probably separate them. It has been reported that the Pink Convict is more aggressive to slow moving fish, and this should be kept in mind before choosing tank-mates. If you keep a single pair the fish may get bored, this is especially of the male. If this happens he will hunt the female making her far less likely to have eggs and raise them. Pink Convict Cichlids should be kept in large tanks with plenty of hiding places. This includes moderate rock and plant decoration.
Origin
South America
History
The Pink Convict Cichlid, or Cichasoma nigrofasciatum, is originally from the Central American countries of Panama, El Salvador, Honduras and Costa Rica.

For picture, please google for pink convict

Information taken from http://www.petpig.com
 
Closed Thread


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +9. The time now is 08:15 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright © 2000-2008 Arofanatics.com (Since 30th August 2000)