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Old 12-04-2009, 01:20 PM   #1
Sinubux
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Default Tank Cycling 101

Shall all the members here contribute on articles pertaining to the topic tank cycling for guppies, so that the consolidate posts can be summarized and that maybe could be put as a sticky so that new members can have their learning curve cut short. The reason I think this thread will be beneficial is because I see a trend of new hobbyists picking up this hobby and that their guppies do not last long under their upkeeping. So how people, what do you think of this suggestion.
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Old 12-04-2009, 11:39 PM   #2
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A series of the more common guppy tank setup will be further elaborated in my contribution to this thread. I do hope that for members here that may not agree to what I have contributed, can well chip in to make this explaination of tank cycling more comprehensive.

Tank Setup 1:
Dimension: Standard 2 feet tank
Filtration: Undergravel
Stimulant: A Humble Air Pump that is fitted with an air valve control to regulate the amount of air being introduced to the undergravel system to stimulate water flow.
Substrate: Normal Aquarium Sand as long as it will not alter the water parameters too drastically.

I guess for this setup, it is pretty normal as long as the undergravel plate is well covered by the aquarium sand. As for the height of the outlet, I like the outlet of the water to be protruding out of the water surface so as to agitate the water surface for a better gaseous exchange. As for cycling of such tank, you can either do substrate seeding where once the water is well aged, introduce just a handful of substrate from a well seasoned tank into the new tank and also bacteria to colonize in the new tank. During this period of colonizing, I will introduce just a small spatula of live daphnia as I feel their size and numbers are just nice for the decomposition to take place at a much quicker rate. In order to determine whether the tank is ready for fishes, use any of your fingers to feel the bottom half of the tank. You will notice that the surface is slightly slimy and this is a good indication to show that the bacteria colonization is up to expectation. Then you can introduce fishes into your tank. However do take note that this does not mean that you can pour the fishes in directly, but need to slowly acclimatize them step by step. You will notice that once the whole acclimatization is complete, if you were to tilt the container to allow the guppies to swim into the tank, they will do so freely as if the water really matches to their liking. From day 1 to day 13 of the fish introduction, always maintain a light feeding to your fishes as the fish waste generated will almost certainly cause an ammonia spike in your tank. At day 14, do a 5% water change and replenish the water with good aged water, and lastly you are good to go. The tank only requires a weekly of up to 10% water change and for every 3 months, you will need to do 40% change which requires you to vacuum the substrate for all the deposited waste that are found in the substrate during this period of time.
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Old 13-04-2009, 12:06 AM   #3
nefish
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Maybe u would like to add to this thread as sticky:- http://www.arofanatics.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=335689

Alots of discussion on the needs to keep the guppies.
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:03 PM   #4
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Time to carry on where I left off.

Tank Setup 2:
Dimension: Standard 2 feet tank
Filtration: Hang-on Filter
Stimulant: Electricity.
Substrate: Coral Chips or any bio filteration substrate; loosely packed in a filter bag or in a mesh.

I guess this setup is pretty standard as the flow rate in and out is ideal for total circulation within the tank. As you can see above, based on the specifications, I have omitted the carbon filtration media is because carbon is only good in the beginning. Once it reaches its threshold, all hell will break loose. The toxins and all the harmful substances that were once being absorbed by this same carbon will be re-introduced back into your water bit by bit, hence cause some casualties to take place. You will also notice that if you left this same carbon inside the water and continue to change water as per normal, you are merely delaying the expiry date of your fishes by only diluting the poison that is slowing and surely being introduced back into the water. Now I shall explain as to why I used coral chips in substitute to any other substrate that is available. As your tank begins to mature, the bio bacteria count within the tank is either on the rise or fall, depending on your feeding, the temperature of the tank and so on. In addition, it is almost a common practice that when a hobbyist make purchases of their guppies, they will surely purchase some plants. As we have been always exposed that hardy plants are ferns or nanas. But where are all these plants being attached to, driftwood. It is these drift wood that not only cause the water to colour but also causes its pH within the water to go hay wire. Hence the coral chips will counter that. Coral chips have quite a long shelf life as in they do not disintegrate easily after prolong use, hence they can be used as good bio bacteria ground for colonization. Hence the point as to why i stick to coral chips.
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:18 PM   #5
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Tank Setup 3:
Dimension: Standard 2 feet tank
Filtration: Nothing
Stimulant: Nothing

This setup is quite commonly found in fish farms where instead of tanks, they may utilize concrete ponds or whatsoever. The key point for this setup to be successful lies in ones patience. Firstly setup a tank filled with tap water and then add some water conditioner to help get rid of all the harmful chlorine and chloramine. After 3 days or best 4 later (dont worry, no mosquitoes eggs will be laid), like what I mentioned in tank setup 1, you can introduce some daphnia or if not, put a tiny piece of non fat meat into the tank. The size of this meat can be like this [ ]. Let the tank matures further until you can slowly see that piece of meat begins to disintegrate. Once the meat is gone with takes a total of 4 days depending on the location of your tank. The warmer the tank is, the faster will be the bacteria colonization. I dont have scientific proof as to why but this is what I have been experiencing with my outdoor tanks versus my indoor ones. Now time to introduce fishes into your tank. Do take note that when you introduce your fishes into this tank, you must be very disciplined in terms of the amount to feed and the frequency. Start with small meals first. I know, you may feel heart pain that the fishes might not have enough but I am telling you, it pays to be the devil for about a week. Cause during this time, a slight overfeeding will foul the water quick and that you may have a hard time savaging the fishes once the tank parameters go haywire. This setup is very well used by seasoned guppy players. This is just an assumption on my part and I may be wrong. So do not take it as any form of offence.
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Old 15-09-2009, 07:16 PM   #6
augu3tz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinubux View Post
Tank Setup 3:
Dimension: Standard 2 feet tank
Filtration: Nothing
Stimulant: Nothing

This setup is quite commonly found in fish farms where instead of tanks, they may utilize concrete ponds or whatsoever. The key point for this setup to be successful lies in ones patience. Firstly setup a tank filled with tap water and then add some water conditioner to help get rid of all the harmful chlorine and chloramine. After 3 days or best 4 later (dont worry, no mosquitoes eggs will be laid), like what I mentioned in tank setup 1, you can introduce some daphnia or if not, put a tiny piece of non fat meat into the tank. The size of this meat can be like this [ ]. Let the tank matures further until you can slowly see that piece of meat begins to disintegrate. Once the meat is gone with takes a total of 4 days depending on the location of your tank. The warmer the tank is, the faster will be the bacteria colonization. I dont have scientific proof as to why but this is what I have been experiencing with my outdoor tanks versus my indoor ones. Now time to introduce fishes into your tank. Do take note that when you introduce your fishes into this tank, you must be very disciplined in terms of the amount to feed and the frequency. Start with small meals first. I know, you may feel heart pain that the fishes might not have enough but I am telling you, it pays to be the devil for about a week. Cause during this time, a slight overfeeding will foul the water quick and that you may have a hard time savaging the fishes once the tank parameters go haywire. This setup is very well used by seasoned guppy players. This is just an assumption on my part and I may be wrong. So do not take it as any form of offence.




then if we put daphnia inside how do we know whether its is ready for fishes?
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Old 28-01-2011, 06:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinubux View Post
Tank Setup 3:
Dimension: Standard 2 feet tank
Filtration: Nothing
Stimulant: Nothing

This setup is quite commonly found in fish farms where instead of tanks, they may utilize concrete ponds or whatsoever. The key point for this setup to be successful lies in ones patience. Firstly setup a tank filled with tap water and then add some water conditioner to help get rid of all the harmful chlorine and chloramine. After 3 days or best 4 later (dont worry, no mosquitoes eggs will be laid), like what I mentioned in tank setup 1, you can introduce some daphnia or if not, put a tiny piece of non fat meat into the tank. The size of this meat can be like this [ ]. Let the tank matures further until you can slowly see that piece of meat begins to disintegrate. Once the meat is gone with takes a total of 4 days depending on the location of your tank. The warmer the tank is, the faster will be the bacteria colonization. I dont have scientific proof as to why but this is what I have been experiencing with my outdoor tanks versus my indoor ones. Now time to introduce fishes into your tank. Do take note that when you introduce your fishes into this tank, you must be very disciplined in terms of the amount to feed and the frequency. Start with small meals first. I know, you may feel heart pain that the fishes might not have enough but I am telling you, it pays to be the devil for about a week. Cause during this time, a slight overfeeding will foul the water quick and that you may have a hard time savaging the fishes once the tank parameters go haywire. This setup is very well used by seasoned guppy players. This is just an assumption on my part and I may be wrong. So do not take it as any form of offence.
Bro Sinubux, so for this setup, filtration is not necessary, rite?

Can this setup be applied to fibreglass tank also?

So, is the tank size is still 2 feet?

Cement tanks are normally much bigger in size, is there an error abt the tank size for this setup? Or are you referring to the old cement tank that comes with a piece of glass at one side for people to see the fishes that was about 2 feet in size also? I remember owning this type of tank keeping gold fish while I was a school boy last time he he!

Last edited by mnoor; 28-01-2011 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 18-02-2012, 09:01 AM   #8
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Tank Setup 6
Dimension: Standard 2 feet tank
Filtration: Sponge filter
Stimulant: Air pump

Basically this is one of the more popular setups recently and I decided to update this thread. While I don't confess to be a guru like many others here. I would like to attempt to provide whatever information I have learnt from everyone else here so that future hobbyists who pick up guppying will be able to do so without much trouble.

So the main filtration would be an air driven sponge filter that would provide aeration of water and provide mechanical filtration that would not be too strong at the same time. This is one of the safest form I filtration as you do not have to worry about fries or guppy fighting strong currents. At the same time, this form of filtration is cheap and easier to maintain. Although same as most other setups, you first fill the tank with tap water treated with ac that can remove both chlorine and chloramines while at the same time not release toxic ammonia into the tank. Note that some ac breaks up the ammonia from the chloramines but do not treat the ammonia at all, just leaving the ammonia in the tank. This ammonia would most likely have negative repercussions on your guppies. Choice to age the water is optional. Ensure that water change or top up is done with treated water and has the same ph as the water currently in your tank. If tank is not fully established, as mentioned above, feeding too much can possibly cause ph/ammonia spike which would also not be good for your guppies. There are many different water change routines and you might like to find one to your liking. Due to the economic nature of such a setup, it is one of the more common choices of hobbyists here as they can cater to more tanks.

That's about all. And I apologize if I share any inaccurate information. Hope if there's any mistake, don't persecute me for it. But rather correct them such that everyone can benefit. Cheers to all. Happy guppying.
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Old 23-10-2012, 11:06 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rnkw View Post
Tank Setup 6
Dimension: Standard 2 feet tank
Filtration: Sponge filter
Stimulant: Air pump

Basically this is one of the more popular setups recently and I decided to update this thread. While I don't confess to be a guru like many others here. I would like to attempt to provide whatever information I have learnt from everyone else here so that future hobbyists who pick up guppying will be able to do so without much trouble.

So the main filtration would be an air driven sponge filter that would provide aeration of water and provide mechanical filtration that would not be too strong at the same time. This is one of the safest form I filtration as you do not have to worry about fries or guppy fighting strong currents. At the same time, this form of filtration is cheap and easier to maintain. Although same as most other setups, you first fill the tank with tap water treated with ac that can remove both chlorine and chloramines while at the same time not release toxic ammonia into the tank. Note that some ac breaks up the ammonia from the chloramines but do not treat the ammonia at all, just leaving the ammonia in the tank. This ammonia would most likely have negative repercussions on your guppies. Choice to age the water is optional. Ensure that water change or top up is done with treated water and has the same ph as the water currently in your tank. If tank is not fully established, as mentioned above, feeding too much can possibly cause ph/ammonia spike which would also not be good for your guppies. There are many different water change routines and you might like to find one to your liking. Due to the economic nature of such a setup, it is one of the more common choices of hobbyists here as they can cater to more tanks.

That's about all. And I apologize if I share any inaccurate information. Hope if there's any mistake, don't persecute me for it. But rather correct them such that everyone can benefit. Cheers to all. Happy guppying.
Bro, I use the same setup, one question is that when we dose salt when guppies have some illness, will the salt kill all the BB in the foam filter?
how about with medication like Melafix, Metafix etc.. TIA
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:18 PM   #10
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wow... bro Sin, this is good stuff... cheers...
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