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Old 15-04-2011, 05:16 PM   #111
Alvin Koh

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Hi all, thanks to all who contributed, especially blue33 (from AQ) via PM.

I was monitoring quite closely the past 10 days and didn't want to make any premature conclusions thus there were no immediate updates until today.

I am glad to report that the UG/diatom issue is mostly resolved.

Understanding the situation better, my primary change was to increase water changes to once every day for the past 8-10 days while keeping the lights constant (actually increased to 39w x 3 tubes).

After searching online, I realised that diatoms are not as light-dependant as I'd thought. Since they are free floating and coat most surfaces, manual removal via water change was the best method (algae eaters don't seem to work too well with UG).

Noticable changes:
1) 50% water change daily.
2) Brushing of hardscape, glassware, tank surfaces stirred up alot of floating particles, but I used a fine filter mesh at the outlet to catch the floating debris.
3) Added additional 1KG BioHome to my filter and replaced the fine filter wool (clogged with diatoms / soil particles).
4) I've kept up with my dosing regime (NPK + Seachem Equillibrium which includes more K), dosing (50-100%) more than usual since 50% water change is daily, so nutrients are being diluted more frequently.
5) Added Seachem Excel at twice the recommended dosage for algae control.
6) Re-introduced Amano shrimps (previously, they were uprooting my UG), to uproot/get rid of all the unhealthy rotting UG. Within 24 hours, about 80-90% of my UG was gone. Hehe.

My aim was to keep the water clean, and to let the other plants continue to thrive without light starvation. I'm happy to report that other than the residual diatoms hidden in pockets of spaces within some of the denser plants (e.g. HC), the tank is back to a healthier state.

I will update again soon with photos soon. Cheers!
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Old 15-04-2011, 06:58 PM   #112
xirus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shad0w View Post
except for pogostemon stellatus, I have tried HC, ET, hairgrass no problem even with temp around 28-30C.

There maybe something wrong with you tank setup. For planted tank you need to have balance between substrate, CO2, light and fertilizer. Temperature not the main concern although it does change how your plant will grow or how the plant will look like. As long as not to high (continuously above 30C), it should not kill your plant especially not the one you mention. My Personal experience, there are only handful of specific plant that can't grow in high temp such as Madagascar Lace Plant (until it proven otherwise ).
maybe wat i had done wrongly that in the 1st place i did not put any based ferts....but constantly i did use liquid ferts...is it ok?
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Old 15-04-2011, 07:40 PM   #113
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my pogostemon stellatus does just as well in 27 -28C water..
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Old 21-04-2011, 12:52 AM   #114
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Wow.. so long never visit Aro liao. Didnt know you are the boss here. Tis is blue33 from AQ also.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alvin Koh View Post
Hi all, thanks to all who contributed, especially blue33 (from AQ) via PM.

I was monitoring quite closely the past 10 days and didn't want to make any premature conclusions thus there were no immediate updates until today.

I am glad to report that the UG/diatom issue is mostly resolved.

Understanding the situation better, my primary change was to increase water changes to once every day for the past 8-10 days while keeping the lights constant (actually increased to 39w x 3 tubes).

After searching online, I realised that diatoms are not as light-dependant as I'd thought. Since they are free floating and coat most surfaces, manual removal via water change was the best method (algae eaters don't seem to work too well with UG).

Noticable changes:
1) 50% water change daily.
2) Brushing of hardscape, glassware, tank surfaces stirred up alot of floating particles, but I used a fine filter mesh at the outlet to catch the floating debris.
3) Added additional 1KG BioHome to my filter and replaced the fine filter wool (clogged with diatoms / soil particles).
4) I've kept up with my dosing regime (NPK + Seachem Equillibrium which includes more K), dosing (50-100%) more than usual since 50% water change is daily, so nutrients are being diluted more frequently.
5) Added Seachem Excel at twice the recommended dosage for algae control.
6) Re-introduced Amano shrimps (previously, they were uprooting my UG), to uproot/get rid of all the unhealthy rotting UG. Within 24 hours, about 80-90% of my UG was gone. Hehe.

My aim was to keep the water clean, and to let the other plants continue to thrive without light starvation. I'm happy to report that other than the residual diatoms hidden in pockets of spaces within some of the denser plants (e.g. HC), the tank is back to a healthier state.

I will update again soon with photos soon. Cheers!
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Old 21-04-2011, 09:41 PM   #115
Alvin Koh

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Wow.. so long never visit Aro liao. Didnt know you are the boss here. Tis is blue33 from AQ also.
Hi Adrian - thanks again for the guidance

I have to learn from the experienced aquascapers and AQ has plenty of that!
I'm actually quite out of touch (fishkeeping wise) as I gave up my last tank in 2006. Planted is really a different challenge and something I wanted to do for the longest time and I'm glad to be able to finally start this year. Hehe.
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Old 21-04-2011, 10:15 PM   #116
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Hi alvin, i've just started a planted tank recently and using the same method as you DSM. however, my HC didn't survive and most of them had rotten away. i can still see 1 or 2 leaf still in green colour, i'm quite puzzled about this, hope you can share some light with me on how to keep the HC alive. thanks

i'm using project soil and light wise is T5 2x24W (1 tube is 12000k the other is 7500k) on for 11-12hrs a day.
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Old 22-04-2011, 11:33 AM   #117
Alvin Koh

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Hi alvin, i've just started a planted tank recently and using the same method as you DSM. however, my HC didn't survive and most of them had rotten away. i can still see 1 or 2 leaf still in green colour, i'm quite puzzled about this, hope you can share some light with me on how to keep the HC alive. thanks

i'm using project soil and light wise is T5 2x24W (1 tube is 12000k the other is 7500k) on for 11-12hrs a day.
Hi ciaossu,

For HC, I get melting whenever the leaves are too wet (touching water). Thus I try to keep the soil moist rather than wet and this may be your issue. Another possible cause I can think of is transitioning from submerged to emerged state, but most local sources of HC are in emerged state to begin with.

Once clumps of leaves have melted, it helps to remove the clumps as otherwise, the rotting mess may cause secondary issues like fungus or cyanobacteria.

I don't think your lighting is an issue.
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