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Old 04-05-2015, 03:35 PM   #31
Orhlulu
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Haha like what bro CCT mentioned, its up to u to decide to take the risk a not.
Cichlids are hardy fishes but I wouldn't advise it if you are getting a colony of mobas or zaries

Rule of thumb is to go through the proper cycling phase. Using existing conditioned water and media will accelerate the cycling process .
Another option is to buy those bottled /powdered bacteria from LFS. It ranges from $10 - $30 depending on brands. Can probably accelerate to a few days instead of weeks.
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Old 04-05-2015, 04:45 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Orhlulu View Post
Haha like what bro CCT mentioned, its up to u to decide to take the risk a not.

Cichlids are hardy fishes but I wouldn't advise it if you are getting a colony of mobas or zaries



Rule of thumb is to go through the proper cycling phase. Using existing conditioned water and media will accelerate the cycling process .

Another option is to buy those bottled /powdered bacteria from LFS. It ranges from $10 - $30 depending on brands. Can probably accelerate to a few days instead of weeks.

Haha ya the bacteria solution i forgotten as i nv use them. Anyway if use my method dun blame me if got casualties har.


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Old 04-05-2015, 05:46 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by johannes View Post
Different tanganyikan fishes have different tolerance to the chlorine and chloramine in our water. So I suggest dosing while topping up for those practicing direct tap water top up.
On top of that please dose to the whole tank's water volume and not just topped up water.
Agreed TOTALLY! 1) Dosing WHILE topping up 2) dose WHOLE tank

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Originally Posted by Orhlulu View Post

So far, wc is direct from tap and dosing prime after. Good days 40% wc plus 4 capful of prime. Normal days 20% plus 2 capful of prime.

I won't take chances with rarer or pricer fishes.


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Think you should calculate exactly how much dosage is needed for your tank and dose the required AC whether its 20% or 40% WC if direct from tap. Overdose 1 extra cap is perfectly sensible too. That's the main reason why I WC 75~80% instead of 25%....as whether I WC 25% or 80% I still need to dose the required AC. Also, its best to add in AC whilst topping up tank too instead of AFTER....as your fish will then have minimum exposure to chlorine/chloromine. Your method may work too but still putting some fishes at risks.

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Originally Posted by CCT View Post
Ph wise not to worry much sg water is quite good, as long as you have media which increase ph or using coral sand as substance its fine as well.

I usually do once wc a week sometimes twice a week but not recommended.

Sponge filter for 4ft tank? Temporary measure with regular wc still ok but not permanent.

Both canister or ohf is fine but if your bio load is higher i recommend canister, ohf not very nice with those loads. Haha

Try to reuse your existing water rather all new tank water for your new tank, media if possible try to use used one as well. If possible of cos cycle will be good but if not choice then do what you think is best. For my case i use my old water mix with new so i usually do not cycle but there is risk for me to take.

I don't encourage u as i am risk taker. Not sure about you.

Anyway whats fronts you getting. Happy to see new fronts hobbyist around.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCT View Post
Bro my wc variant by tank for my canister tank i change 20 to 30% each time and for ohf tank i do at least 50%.

Usually i use hose direct as sg water is quite safe, and i usually put the anti chlorine only after wc is done, as you still have the old water to mix.


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IMO, OHF is more efficient than canister...reason being we tend to change the sponges of the OHF very frequently whereas as for canister....we tend to be too lazy to open up to do some cleaning for many months. Honestly....I haven't clean my canister for 1yr+ already when optimumly I should clean every few months. Mechanical filtration....OHF rules. Biological filtration....depending on what medias u using for both. As for sponge filters it does work minimum-ly for both mechanical/biological but it is best to use sponge filters as a complement/extra filtration to either OHF/Canister.

Whichever filtration u used, u can actually put in fishes immediately or if you kiasu..couple days later if you ....

1. Use a bucket of tank water, squeeze/wash your old sponges inside bucket. You will see the bucket actually got very dirty and brownish with smug/bacterias in it
2) Soak the new medias/sponges into the dirty bucket and you will have some bacterias trapped inside them
3) Use the soaked medias/sponges for your new filtration system for the new tank
4) Water wise for the new tank...can use tap water with anti-chlorine
5) OFC you will not fill your new tank with 100s fishes immediately as then the bioload would be too great for your new filtration system. Add fishes wisely and accordingly.

Above opinions are from my honest experience and just wanna share with you all.
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Old 04-05-2015, 06:23 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brichardi View Post

Think you should calculate exactly how much dosage is needed for your tank and dose the required AC whether its 20% or 40% WC if direct from tap. Overdose 1 extra cap is perfectly sensible too. That's the main reason why I WC 75~80% instead of 25%....as whether I WC 25% or 80% I still need to dose the required AC. Also, its best to add in AC whilst topping up tank too instead of AFTER....as your fish will then have minimum exposure to chlorine/chloromine. Your method may work too but still putting some fishes at risks.
Your determination for your WC regime never fails to impress me
75% WC x number of tanks. *foams*

Agree with the extra dosage. A little extra never hurts.

1 capful = 5ml for 200l of water
4 capful = 20ml for 800l of water
Just nice for a 522.

Most of the time while the water is filing up, i will go down for a smoke thus only adding the AC when the tank is almost full or after the tank is full.
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Old 04-05-2015, 09:11 PM   #35
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wow the pros here so friendly so much advice!...tks tks~

OHF normally recommend what brand?


i just decomm my 2.5ft tank today to shift place to make space for 4ft.....

started at 2pm..until now still haven finish everything(aquascape tank)....


frontosa probably get the commonly available is burundi izzit?
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Old 04-05-2015, 10:34 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trueblue82 View Post
wow the pros here so friendly so much advice!...tks tks~



OHF normally recommend what brand?





i just decomm my 2.5ft tank today to shift place to make space for 4ft.....



started at 2pm..until now still haven finish everything(aquascape tank)....





frontosa probably get the commonly available is burundi izzit?
Haha thats why common lo, when i do my first 4ft i do from 10pm to around 4am

Ohf mr aqua the white box one is not bad can build up yourself, media wise get some bio ball and ceramic ring.

Burundi is not bad choice to start, have you gotten them? If not can pm me, i letting go some 3 to 4 inches one to give more space.



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Old 06-05-2015, 04:18 PM   #37
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i will keep your offer in mind,but i like those juvenile ones slowly watch them grow(if i don't kill them first).

my 4ft delivering tonite finally , but no time (and energy) to do anything yet. zz


if im getting coral sand how many bag/kg enough for 4ft???

do you pros use seachem cichlid salt?
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Old 06-05-2015, 04:35 PM   #38
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Bro 3 to 4 in for fronts is juv le


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Old 06-05-2015, 04:36 PM   #39
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U want fries is it? Haha anyway good choice as well


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Old 06-05-2015, 04:38 PM   #40
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Oh ya coral sand i used 20kg. But 15kg should do the job.. I am not pro so cant ans the salt question but i use normal aquarium salt and epsom salt only


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