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05-12-2006, 12:11 AM | #31 | ||
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Regards, Peter Gwee |
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05-12-2006, 12:42 AM | #32 |
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Thanks Peter for correcting me there.
I do know that plants can utilize the CO2 as well as the carbonates and since I had read that the recommended KH for most plants hardly roll over 5, I put it in my mind that the KH shouldn't be too high. But what about the pH swings? Won't a poorly buffered water's inhabitants have problems? Or does this swing mostly affects the critters only? Or is it all a myth altogether? I always thought that in their natural habitats fishes generally do not suffer too high a pH swing, I had been carrying the idea that in those waters the pH deviates no more than 1 or 2. But I always recommend people to have a good range of pH in their tanks as I suppose it is, on my part, trying to "play it safe". Anyway my tank's pH now is 5.8 (without ADA soil or the likes) and everything's fine, but I will continue to avoid extremities (kiasu abit). -Calvin |
05-12-2006, 03:27 AM | #33 | |
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Either high tech or low tech tanks, the sediments should be rich in nutrients as it should be the primary nutrient source for rooted plants. This is particularly true for P, Fe, and other trace elements. In contrast, nutrients that are often associated with water hardness—K, Ca, Mg, Cl and So4—are generally taken up from the water. Given our local water that is poor in minerals, deficiencies of K, Ca and Mg, would definitely happen in a newly started tank. So I suggest apart from adding a base fertilizer, he should also buff up the GH slightly with seachem equilibrium. And give it a good biological filtration, healthy fauna that are well fed and a good photoperiod of moderate lighting, he should be able to achieve a beautiful aquatic garden without CO2. Plants such as Hygrophila difformis, Ludwigia reopens, Rotala rotundifolia and Echinodorus tenellus should be a good start for novices. You can research more about plants from this plant database |
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05-12-2006, 03:30 AM | #34 |
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05-12-2006, 01:17 PM | #35 |
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Perhaps I've been misunderstood. It's definately not as simple as add water, plant plants and give 10 hours of light daily. I assumed that zadrian has already read up beginner articles and so know at least a bit about fertilisation and stuff like that.
On the other hand, my post might have given the illusion that planted tanks was so simple because I wanted to keep it simple and easy to read and digest for the reader. I used to be confused about all the elements that were supposedly responsible for plant health. It didn't help that there were contradicting posts that gave completely different advices for the same issue. That's the reason why I directly addressed his questions with simple short sentences without giving reasons (and thus making my post vague). Explaining it all will take an entire day and is hard to digest. It's up to the reader to pick out the correct information and to go learn somemore by searching the forums/Internet, like why this must be done for this issue etc. |
08-12-2006, 03:34 AM | #36 |
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13-12-2006, 08:54 PM | #37 |
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Thanks to all for helping.
Started a 2nd tank ....but Armor shrimps still dying. - No base fertillizer in soil - Using Ocean free roots booster fertillizer that can be added after adding soil - liquid fertillizer (once a week). - CO2 is by a electric device cost ard $50 (cannot remember name) - lots of plants, mainly Hydrilla, Nana, moss on rocks & wood and some red stemed plants - trying to grow a moss wall Got a mutli-test strip tester, but results very vague as test comes out different for same tank. |
14-12-2006, 10:47 PM | #38 |
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BTW, I got a Nisso CO2 device for the 2nd tank......any reviews ?
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15-12-2006, 04:59 AM | #39 |
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Here are some of the water readings.....
PH : 6.6-6.8 KH : 6-10d GH : >16d NO2 : 1mg/L NO3 : 25mg/L Planning a WC in 2 days time....once every 7-10 days....10-20% |
20-12-2006, 09:42 PM | #40 |
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What are the wats to reduce KH ?
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