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01-01-2016, 05:16 PM | #21 |
Senior Moderator
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Question now is...
If I do 80% WC. I dose AC (whatever brand) according to volume change (let's say). But at that dosage being initially poured into the tank with only remaining 20% water, wouldn't the initial period have the fishes experience a super overdose of AC in the water? Even if full blast new water into tank, it still takes awhile for water to fill up so the fishes still experience high OD of AC isn't it? |
01-01-2016, 06:03 PM | #22 |
Dragon
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,561
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The concern is how fast the AC can neutralize the chlorine effect. If one add direct from tap having the AC added to the old water can the AC act immediately without the fish experience the chlorine effect? Some more careful keeper pre-mix rather than top up direct. So far I direct add from tap with overdosing of AC no issue, and I am doing at least 50% WC. Expensive brand, cheap brand and even hypo crystal give the same effect, as objective is to neutralize the Chlorine and Chloromine. If afraid have a storage, pre-mix and let the water sits overnight.
Not adding AC is definitely a risk no matter how much water change you do as any trace of Chlorine would cause harm, and the impact depend on what fish you keep. Also they do once a while chlorine water spiking meaning amount of chlorine in the water supply varies, if happen you do water change at that moment your fish would feel the big effect. That is why always practice moderate overdosing, don't think that could cause harm. |
01-01-2016, 07:10 PM | #23 |
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hobby should be enjoyable and sustainable. .
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01-01-2016, 09:32 PM | #24 | |
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01-01-2016, 10:10 PM | #25 |
Arofanatic
Join Date: Feb 2014
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The AC itself should not pose much problem to the fish. In any case, its usually safe to overdose to a relatively high amount.
ACs primarily target chlorine and chloramine in the water and react with them to become non toxic to fish. As far as chemical reactions go, I think any AC would be able to neutralise fast enough as long as there was some water flow distributing the AC across the tank. Not adding any AC relies on the WC amount being marginal and because the amount of chlorine is so diluted that it doesn't cause harm. Afterall, they are eventually dissipated naturally (if I'm not mistaken). Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk |
01-01-2016, 10:15 PM | #26 | |
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01-01-2016, 10:26 PM | #27 |
Arofanatic
Join Date: Feb 2014
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It's both. Personally, I add AC whilst topping up water into the tank. My usual amount is about 50% and I just add half the AC before starting top up, and another half whilst the water fills up. Then when full, I'll add in another few pumps of AC for good measure.
The type of AC being used has marginal importance to me. As mentioned, all AC brands will neutralise chlorine. Better ones also target chloramine. Within this bracket of superior AC brands, different chemicals are used to neutralise the harmful stuff into relatively harmless byproducts. This portion is too scientific for me but generally, I don't think the difference would be visible unless lab testing is done. Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk |
01-01-2016, 10:35 PM | #28 |
Arofanatic
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The instructions on most AC bottles is for 1ppm concentration.
According to PUB website, Singapore water is 1.2-3ppm At the upper end of the range this means that you will need to use 3x the indicated dosage of AC to rid the water of chlorine. The only real way to tell the exact amount of Cl in the water is to use a specialized test kit. |
01-01-2016, 10:50 PM | #29 |
Arofanatic
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 312
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This uncertainty is one reason why I opted to use a large catalytic carbon upflow unit.
Such systems aren't difficult to DIY. That is the only way to reliably remove almost all the chlorine without overdosing chems. |
01-01-2016, 10:55 PM | #30 |
Arofanatic
Join Date: Jul 2014
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Switched from Seachem Prime to AST also.
So far so good, no casualty. 50% WC. |
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