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27-07-2004, 02:13 AM | #11 |
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Okay I contacted Don carner and he told me that after setup , just place the denitrator connect to main system and forget abt it for 6 to 7 weeks , no feeding required. and also to fiddle with the drip rate...
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27-07-2004, 10:12 PM | #12 |
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infact im running a denitrator from aqua medic..
i tune mine to 1drip per sec and it stinks.. so now i tune it to about 3drip per sec.. is that fine? |
27-07-2004, 10:17 PM | #13 | |
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27-07-2004, 11:11 PM | #14 |
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actually if you look at how the bacteria work .. it make sense to have a system that is tall enought.
1. Aerobic bacteria convert ammonia into nitrite and then into nitrate, which consume O2. 2. ANAEROBIC bacteria then begin to flourish in this O2 deprived water and consume nitrate. Let's said you have a pipe/container that is tall (> 2 ft), with all the bio ball inside, let the water slowly drip from top and return to the sump. so the aerobic bateria will colonise on the top -> bottom while anaerobic bacteria will grow on from mid -> bottom , make sense ? |
27-07-2004, 11:20 PM | #15 | |
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28-07-2004, 12:17 AM | #16 |
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The reason for tall Denitrator setup is for DIY ppl to house as long as possible the rubber Air Hose ( theory is to allow aerobic bac to consume as much oxygen as possible) so that at the end of Output, water in contact with Bio media is oxygen deprived , allowing anerobic bac to flourish.
In fact , a short denitrator will also work great if you r able to remove all oxygen from input before entering denitrator, just look at Ruwal Denitrator, aquamedic , they don come long fittings no? |
28-07-2004, 06:12 AM | #17 |
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but the hard part is to remove the O2
i mean to keep air from not going inbetween. |
28-07-2004, 07:13 PM | #18 |
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this may be a good read for the day about the trickle tower , or TT from koi forum
" the "normal" desciption of the nitrification process is in gross error. The end result products of nitrification, and denitrification, by biofiltration are nitrous oxide, N2O, and nitric oxide, NO. Mostly and usually the end product is nitrous oxide. Nitrous oxide is actually 50% heavier than air, so does not tend to rise in an air column, you are simply mistaken about that. So to get it out of a trickle tower, you must either have open sides of the tower, or have good air exchange of the trickle tower with the surrounding air. Both nitric oxide and nitrous oxide can dissolve in the water to react and make more nitrates and nitrites, if they are not degassed soon after they are produced in biofilms. That is the entire principle of trickle tower filters, namely better degassing to remove these end products of biofiltration before they dissolve in the water to make more nitrites and nitrates. You probably won't believe me, but I have read approximately 1250 published papers on the biofiltration process in the scientific literature. They sometimes openly laugh in the papers about the drivel written in books and on the internet about biofiltration. It can be a deep subject when studied for a while. The main point is that I always advise folks with solid wall trickle towers never to use distribution plates, to use spray bars instead. Because with a distribution plate, and a solid wall, the nitrous oxide and nitric oxide can't get out, and the filter is no better than submerged media, where the nitrogen goes around and around in a big cycle, sometimes getting out a bit in waterfalls where it degasses a bit. I hope this helps some with your misconceptions. I do not expect your wierd weed to disappear with your TT construction, but hope you prove me wrong. Roddy Conrad Charleston, WV "Have a pleasant day" |
28-07-2004, 10:13 PM | #19 |
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Here's my 2 cts:
We all know that all animals including fish produce ammonia as a waste product which is turned into nitrites and then nitrates. Nitrates are less toxic than ammonia or nitrites, but they are still toxic to humans, animals and fish. Having the above understanding, a denitrator can be used in a freshwater tropical fish aquariums as well as in a saltwater aquarium including coral reef tanks. So basically a denitrator is a biological filter that removes nitrate (NO3) from the aquarium. A denitrator filter uses anaerobic bacteria to break down nitrate into nitrogen gas (N2), which escapes into the atmosphere giving us a nitrate free environment. The bacteria inside the denitrator cannot live on nitrates alone. Some type of carbon energy source has to be present for the bacteria to break down the nitrates. Denitrators without a feeding system utilize the organic matter in the water. However, in many tanks, like those with very efficient biological filters, there may not be enough organic matter in the water to break down all of the nitrates. Essentially “feeding” the denitrator makes it more efficient. Without "feeding" the denitrator will still break down a lot of the nitrates but IMO probably not all of them. The least inexpensive feeds is to use 25% of table sugar (sucrose) in a any measuring cup of water to the denitrator which will enable bacteria breaking down the nitrates more efficiently. Even Aqua Medic Denitrator, the deniballs needs replacement too. |
29-07-2004, 12:56 AM | #20 |
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yea thats the name,deniball.. the deniballs take about 1year to be gone..than its time to replace it.
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