All my shrimps died. Wish to restart. What measures should I adopt with existing equi

Originally Posted by ralliart12

Then in that case, should I just one-shot change the filter media as well? Got what filter media to recommend? Or should I cycle for a couple of weeks with activated carbon first (to really reset") THEN switch to "normal" filter media after that?

no need activated carbon. Activated carbon tends to release back what it has absorbed after it loses it retention properties.

If you got spare change can go and grab GEX 'S' filter, can stuff some CR in it. you can cycle the tank with some fish food or dump some market prawn head for a day. NEVER use any livestock, just a no no for me.

Hey, just wanted to remind you that in such a setting, especially if you use fan, do remember to top up with distilled/ RO water if you are doing top offs. Water changes do as per normal, ie with de-chlorinated tapwater ^^

Originally Posted by Bettas4life

bro, i suggest you stay away from CRS first, keep some more hardy types first like cherries...

R Sakuras considered hardy shrimps?

Originally Posted by Bettas4life

Keep plants simple in the tank. Moss or some java ferns will do.

The plants should be in b4 the shrimps right? Then may I intro the plant a couple of weeks after cycling?

no matter how careful u are, and how expensive your equipment are. it wont work in a small tank. water parameter spike up n down dramatically without u knowing. its pretty common sense, imagine a 10 litre vs a 50 litre tank, if u drip a drop of copper fertilser solution accidently, it will show less effect in the 50litre because it gets diluted, theres still some play time for the eco in your tank to react before 'independents day' unleash. yep, dont worry, it take couples of try to make it work..

Originally Posted by Bettas4life

If you got spare change can go and grab GEX 'S' filter, can stuff some CR in it. you can cycle the tank with some fish food or dump some market prawn head for a day. NEVER use any livestock, just a no no for me.

Is "GEX S filter" a type of filter media? Then may I know what "CR" is?

Btw, got what type of moss is easy to maintain?

Originally Posted by ccm

no matter how careful u are, and how expensive your equipment are. it wont work in a small tank.

It's true. It took me about half a year to finally get a regime for my 12litre tank that works ^^

Originally Posted by Bettas4life

...If you got spare change can go and grab GEX 'S' filter, can stuff some CR in it...

Googled & found out that the GEX "S" is really a filter; is it on sale at C328? Price-range? I still don't understand the meaning of stuffing "CR" into it though...

I'm confused about the combined usage of the various water conditioners. Suppose if I were to setup a new tank; to cycle it: is there any sequence to apply the following items:

1. Anti-Chlorine/Anti-Chlroamine (like the Mosura Shizen or SeaChem Prime for the additional anti-ammonia thing),
2. Bacteria "booster" (like the BT-9 from Mosura also)
3. Old Sea Mud Powder (again, from Mosura)

Qn1. My confusion is, at the very early stages of cycling a tank, do I use these items in combination, or is it more like apply item #1, then apply item #2 after a few days (& so on so forth)?

Qn2. & if I have soil when starting the cycling process of my tank, will adding these chemicals screw up some attributes of the soil?

Qn3. If I have test kits and take readings after applying these conditioners, wouldn't the readings be severely inaccurate?

Originally Posted by ralliart12

Googled & found out that the GEX "S" is really a filter; is it on sale at C328? Price-range? I still don't understand the meaning of stuffing "CR" into it though...

My dear bro, CR = ceramic ring. try to get the brand eheim biohomme. It is kinda exp but is good. as for plants, i do introduce them in during my cycling period so as to absorb the NO3.

Remember, cycling = waste-> NH3(toxic in high amount, may cause ammonia burn) -> NO2 (toxic to livestocks) -> NO3, (less toxic, harmful but can be reduced through plants.)

I wont recommend market prawn as raw prawns from the sea may contain harmful bacteria/parasites that is fine for big fishes but can be too strong for shrimps to combat. Using pellets is a good idea. Otherwise get commercial products like BT-9 to introduce the beneficial bacteria, and look out for products that contain nitrogenous bacteria. Iread from past post someone mentioned NiteOut II with another product from the same company MicroLift, and the company also mention it can speed cycling to completion within a day.

Bro, i suggest you read up more on the sticky threads guiding you to setup shrimps tank as you buy your items. remember to add livestock few by few so as not to introduce a sudden heavy bioload which the beneficial bacteria in your tank cant take it yet. The bioload will release high NH3 and inturn affects your ph, NH3, NH4, NO2 and NO3.

I hope my contribution helped you in a way or so.

Originally Posted by ralliart12

I'm confused about the combined usage of the various water conditioners. Suppose if I were to setup a new tank; to cycle it: is there any sequence to apply the following items:

1. Anti-Chlorine/Anti-Chlroamine (like the Mosura Shizen or SeaChem Prime for the additional anti-ammonia thing),
2. Bacteria "booster" (like the BT-9 from Mosura also)
3. Old Sea Mud Powder (again, from Mosura)

Qn1. My confusion is, at the very early stages of cycling a tank, do I use these items in combination, or is it more like apply item #1, then apply item #2 after a few days (& so on so forth)?

1)Pour old sea mud under the soil. Dosage to be estimated base on your tank size.
2)Age the water, use conditioner + air pump. After at least a day, pour water into the tank.
3) scoop a tau huey tub of water from the tank, add BT-9 into the tub and stir well. Then add into your tank, ensuring a well spread over the tank.

Qn2. & if I have soil when starting the cycling process of my tank, will adding these chemicals screw up some attributes of the soil?

It will add on, hardly screw up.

Qn3. If I have test kits and take readings after applying these conditioners, wouldn't the readings be severely inaccurate?

You take reading 3days after your water change or adding of chemicals.