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Old 31-01-2005, 12:10 AM   #41
Maculosus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spsman
read carefuly. n u will know why i measure no2 instead. cheerz.
I am aware of what is Nitrification, Denitrification, Denitrators blah blah blah. I read about all this many yrs ago. This is a product that will definitely do its job well. No doubt about it.

What I meant is why do u still have NO2 in the water? U may wish to look at what is causing NO2 in the tank.

May I know how high is ur NO2 prior to using the fluidised bed filter?

For "de-nitrator or nitrate reductor":

Actually they are used to reduce NO3, part of the Denitrification process. Denitrators fall into three main categories: standard denitrators, carbon-fed denitrators and sulphur denitrators. Some products are Deltec Sulphur Nitrate Filter, Coralife Denitrator, Schuran Nitratefilter etc.
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Old 31-01-2005, 04:39 AM   #42
spsman
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Default chehh...bravo

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maculosus
I am aware of what is Nitrification, Denitrification, Denitrators blah blah blah. I read about all this many yrs ago. This is a product that will definitely do its job well. No doubt about it.

What I meant is why do u still have NO2 in the water? U may wish to look at what is causing NO2 in the tank.

May I know how high is ur NO2 prior to using the fluidised bed filter?

For "de-nitrator or nitrate reductor":

Actually they are used to reduce NO3, part of the Denitrification process. Denitrators fall into three main categories: standard denitrators, carbon-fed denitrators and sulphur denitrators. Some products are Deltec Sulphur Nitrate Filter, Coralife Denitrator, Schuran Nitratefilter etc.

now we are talking. okay to test the fbf, i am doing intensive feeding becos the pdt guides say it can handle sudden increased feeding as well as new additions to bioload. i will be getting some fishes as well, when i find what i want. my testing mtd is preferential but the idea is to see whether it can really handle the additional bioload... more fishes and more food = more waste. In fact, to be precise i shud measure amonnia.

so may i ask what form of filtration are u currently using? would u kindly post a pic of your sump for us bro? intd to know wht metd u employ. cheerz bro and thks for the reply. well at least it was constructive and to the topic.
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Old 31-01-2005, 09:51 AM   #43
nim75sg
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The FBF does works as it is proven in my 6ft setup but I want to be damn sure before sticking my neck on the chopping block.

Reason being I don't have any figures before and after installing the FBF. That was the reason why I wanted to buy a 2nd unit and installed in another matured 6ft tank to verify how efficient is this damn FBF.

Unfortunately that unit from SRC Kao **** has a missing part.

Fyi, 0ccupants besides corals in the tank from mid Aug 2004 till to-date are:

1) 16 Anthias
2) Kole Tang
3) Brown Tang
4) Parlini Tang
5) Vlamingi Tang
6) Naso Tang
7) Orange Shoulder Tang
8) Red Sea Sailfin Tang
9) Tomini Tang
10) Bristletooth Tang

Maybe this 6ft tank isn't mature yet as it is only 5 months old but I am pretty confident that this setup of having 2 inchs of sand-bed, about 80kg of LRs will reach the maturity stage.

Fyi, the NO3 levels always hover around 10 to 20ppm which is acceptable with NO2 level between 0 and 0.2 ppm and all tests are conducted using low-level resolution SeaTest Test Kits.
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Old 31-01-2005, 11:06 AM   #44
Maculosus
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spsman, U have not told me how high is ur NO2 prior to using the fluidised bed filter.

One thing to be very careful with FBF is that in the event of electricity blackout, all the autotrophic bacteria will die-off and may crash ur tank very fast as NH3 will be produced quickly. Nitrification is an obligate aerobic, oxidizing process. This means that it can only occur in an environment which contains oxygen, or given high water flowrate condition.

My 1.5 yr old 4ft FOWLR consists of anemones as well, but all along having NO3 but no NO2 after 3 wks into the setup of this 4ft. All LR and LS were transferrred from an old 2ft tank which ran for 1 yr. The 4 ft tank has 80-90kg LR and DIY sump. Overflow compartment has bio-balls (may remove them in future). 1st sump compartment is filter wool, ceramic ring. 2nd compartment is refugium and finally the return compartment.
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Old 31-01-2005, 02:37 PM   #45
spsman
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Default cheerz

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maculosus
spsman, U have not told me how high is ur NO2 prior to using the fluidised bed filter.

One thing to be very careful with FBF is that in the event of electricity blackout, all the autotrophic bacteria will die-off and may crash ur tank very fast as NH3 will be produced quickly. Nitrification is an obligate aerobic, oxidizing process. This means that it can only occur in an environment which contains oxygen, or given high water flowrate condition.

My 1.5 yr old 4ft FOWLR consists of anemones as well, but all along having NO3 but no NO2 after 3 wks into the setup of this 4ft. All LR and LS were transferrred from an old 2ft tank which ran for 1 yr. The 4 ft tank has 80-90kg LR and DIY sump. Overflow compartment has bio-balls (may remove them in future). 1st sump compartment is filter wool, ceramic ring. 2nd compartment is refugium and finally the return compartment.

No2 reading is zero. but i am upping it now. thats why increase feeding and searching for new additions. I need to test this equipment fairly, so i am trying to get ammonia and no2 to be up a little. of course, u need to test carefully so as not to kill your inhabitants. believe me i am trying hard to do it now. I decided not to up the no2 prior to installation of fbf becos i already have a balanced and stable system due to my life rock. and of course i would not be removing the liverock right?
the test has to be conducted when the no2 is up after installation of fbf becos this shows that the lr has already done its part. and the rest of the work is by the fbf. and the fact is that it will take some time for the substrate to be colonised before it starts to work.

now i understand that your tank rely on bioballs n ceramic rings only aside frm LR. i must advise that the sudden withdrwal of bio balls from your tank means the sudden withdrawal of your nitirfication factory. u need to back it up first,else confirm problems set in. why did u choose bioballs in the first place? how many fishes do u keep?

thks for telling me the power failure issue. i experienced it once and the return pump did not work. stressful for me, and especially for my prized corals.... damn.. i still remember the incidence vividly. i had to climb the stairs, no need the stairmaster training.
i guess if it happens , most of the equipments also shut down. not only the fbf bacteria dies, the lr bacteria also bye bye....
however, lucky for me, the inhabitants were safe and sound.
i need a UPS.... any bros can recommend a cheap and gd one?
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Old 31-01-2005, 06:07 PM   #46
Maculosus
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NO2 will be quickly brought back to zero in a matter of days even if u have increased feedings or fishload. The only chance for NH3 and NO2 to go up to a dangerous level is when there is sudden die-off of many fishes or corals, or if the tank is small and has only minimal amount of LR and no water change is done.

I feel that if u have enough LR in the tank, this FBF is redundant. Biofiltration for reef tank depends mainly on LR and sandbed, if the proper amount is used. If u do a search at Wetwebmedia (Bob Fenner), it is covered extensively. In future, NO3 will be a bigger problem for u, as it is not easy to remove.

I may try to fix my NO3 problem but how I see it now is that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". My fish and anemones are with me over 1-2 yrs in the same condition and thriving well. I have many medium-large size fishes and I feed few times each day. The bio-balls were there many yrs ago, as everyone seems to be doing the same thing. It is good for nitrification only. But for the past 2-3 yrs reefers prefer deep sand bed filtration.
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