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Old 22-09-2005, 04:43 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagemaru
yes sir!

Like I mentioned earlier,

Algae and green water occurs due to excessive nitrates and nutrients in the water...

solve the problem of overfeeding will solve ur green water problem

normally I feed 80% of normal input amount during tanning experiment...its also better cos reds will not fall sick easily after a spate of rains
Master Kage,

Correct me if I'm wrong...the nitrates and nutrients occur due to the excessive waste generated by the fish and decomposition of uneaten food (eg. MP). There is also the generation of ammonia which will result in the nitrates. The nitrates, if not broken down or absorbed by any plant matter, will plague the water thus causing the algae problem.

Therefore, IMO, it's not just the overfeeding of the aros right? It should be more of whether the BB in the filter media is efficient enuff to breakdown the waste matters?

Moreover, the excessive amount of lights can also be a cause of the green water isn't it? Lastly, to remove the green water,would the passing of the water through a UVC be the best way (would this kill off the BB in the media too) or thru multiple WC? If through multiple WC, then how to change less so that parameter is not affected so drastically to cause stress while ridding the 6ft tank of the green water leh?

Just for discussion
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Old 22-09-2005, 04:44 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by liquidnoise
no lah no hai.
Recently I revamp my IOS. manage to get pH about 7.6~7.8 maintain
I did about 45% WC also damp in alot of anti-chlorine.
I notice that there are bubblies more then normal. I know more alcoline water can happen also like wat u have mention. But the additional is just CC. maybe a little too much anti-chlorine.
My water surface bubblies but no oil residue.
tested water okay leh. wat does it mean
?
WC 45%.... u champion! Yr school of thought very hard to use Kage's method, cos yr water management is beyond us.
 
Old 22-09-2005, 04:45 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by winkelhock
Kum sia kum sia....but i still have many agitation but then totally no agitaion the fish how to breathe??
Like Kage said, u can have like air tube blowing bubbles, but fine ones & break up w minimun ripples...
 
Old 22-09-2005, 04:55 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidnoise
no lah no hai.
Recently I revamp my IOS. manage to get pH about 7.6~7.8 maintain
I did about 45% WC also damp in alot of anti-chlorine.
I notice that there are bubblies more then normal. I know more alcoline water can happen also like wat u have mention. But the additional is just CC. maybe a little too much anti-chlorine.
My water surface bubblies but no oil residue.
tested water okay leh. wat does it mean
?
2 things:

Firstly u just revamped the IOS...bacteria will be lost or insufficient to perform at its best

Secondly having alot of anti-chlorine doesnt mean no chloramine...most of the products on the shelf is not able to remove chloramines...and tats wat is added to our NEWATER

water surface bubbles need not show "oiliness" its just an illustration
 
Old 22-09-2005, 04:55 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newbird^
zhun bor?....
zhun do it once every 1-2 mth in betwwen weekly change 20%
 
Old 22-09-2005, 04:56 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagemaru
2 things:

Firstly u just revamped the IOS...bacteria will be lost or insufficient to perform at its best

Secondly having alot of anti-chlorine doesnt mean no chloramine...most of the products on the shelf is not able to remove chloramines...and tats wat is added to our NEWATER

water surface bubbles need not show "oiliness" its just an illustration
so not good water now?
haiz, how to remedy?
 
Old 22-09-2005, 05:01 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Panther
Master Kage,

Correct me if I'm wrong...the nitrates and nutrients occur due to the excessive waste generated by the fish and decomposition of uneaten food (eg. MP). There is also the generation of ammonia which will result in the nitrates. The nitrates, if not broken down or absorbed by any plant matter, will plague the water thus causing the algae problem.

Therefore, IMO, it's not just the overfeeding of the aros right? It should be more of whether the BB in the filter media is efficient enuff to breakdown the waste matters?

Moreover, the excessive amount of lights can also be a cause of the green water isn't it? Lastly, to remove the green water,would the passing of the water through a UVC be the best way (would this kill off the BB in the media too) or thru multiple WC? If through multiple WC, then how to change less so that parameter is not affected so drastically to cause stress while ridding the 6ft tank of the green water leh?

Just for discussion
yes its all linked...nitrogen cycle...

ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, bacteria colony...I too tired to run through everything...but u can do a search on this

multiple WC without causing too much stress?

can --> my method is have a topup tank on the side...use a denitrator to filter off part of the water and into this auto top up tank...excess amount will overflow into the main sump area...this I call the gradual drip replacement method to filter off the waste...anyway there are many gadgets I multi-link into the sump...

Sump --> FBF --> tee off to Denitrator --> auto top up tank --> main tank
 
Old 22-09-2005, 05:01 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidnoise
mine IOS overflow system. so dun really need.
I think

oh..sorry..paiseh...

i mean for those who are using OHF
 
Old 22-09-2005, 05:02 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kagemaru
Part 8: Secrets of light

Color Warmth

I will say this one time and one time only...mimic the sun is not wat the tanning regime should do

if u want to use sunshine --> 6500k is sufficient but it will take u long time to see the difference or rather not much difference if u are doing it at the wrong timing too

my preferred kelvins is > 10k tats the range I operating on
please pardon me, I have a few questions too

is there a reason why sunlight should not be mimicked ?? does this mean that arowanas in outdoor ponds that uses purely sunlight has a lower exposure to tanning than one that uses artificial lights tanning but done according to schedule ??

wat is the relation of kelvins to the tanning process ?? I have always thought tanning is through the wavelength of the lights, of perhaps 260nm - 400nm for UVB and UVA ...

since it is also known that glass filters away as much as 95% of the ultra violet rays, will tanning from the side then loses its desired effect ??
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Old 22-09-2005, 05:08 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidnoise
I am interested to know why too much bubles indicates bad water? pls teach ooo mighty 1
after feed market prawn if ur aro chew and spit and chew, water sure cloudy and smelly and bubbles stay very long.... u think water is good? its another way of looking at it
 
 

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