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#1 |
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As above, I would like to know what are the causes for a tank infect with BBA? Cos I can't seems to get rid of BBA, & it keeps coming back more & more.
As from what I know poor waterflow, high fish bio-load or lack of plants invite BBA..So any other reasons to invite BBA into a tank?:evil: |
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#2 |
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Poor circulation and wild fluctuating levels of CO2 will cause BBA.
To try and eliminate it, first of all try to remove as much as BBA as possible by hand. Trim off the affected leaves and lightly siphon the gravel. Then try to ensure good circulations and also try to maintain a good level of CO2. Maintaining a good balance of lights/CO2/nutrients will help as well. Low plant mass usually invites all sorts of algae, not only BBA. High fish load will cause problems mainly because the biological filtration cannot handle the wastes and cause a spike in ammonia. Ammonia is the root cause of most algae, not nutrients like Nitrates or Phosphate. Its been a long misconception. -Calvin |
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#3 | |
Arofanatic
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Better start w lesser fish.... ![]() |
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#4 |
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As for my tank the specs are:
2ft tank support by Ehiem 2232 & a 12cm fan JBJ subtrates & black quartz gravel PL lighting 36watts but I on only 1 tube of light Ferts:KNO3,KH2PO4,seachem flourish,lushgro-aqua & stick monster Flora:Aunbias nana,Windelov,Egeria densa,Rotala sp. Nanjenshan,Lilaeopsis brasiliensis,Red tiger lotus,Java & Taiwan moss. Fauna:Rummy nose tetra-8 Emperor tetra-2 Black neon tetra-6 Neon tetra-12 SAE-3 Otos-2 Yamato-4 Daily routine-Lights on for 10hrs daily, every thursday 2ml of seachem flourish & 5ml of lushgro-aqua, every sunday dosage of kno3 & kh2p04(1/8 & 1/32 tsp) & no water changes at all only top-up water Yup my tank was a low-tech which have been around for 5 months so no co2 & high in lighting, bba appear everywhere from plants to driftwood. I suspect is poor circulation of waterflow which leads to BBA. ![]() |
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#5 |
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You can consider ditching the LUSHGro Aquas or lowering the dosage first. You have most of the things covered with the rest of the things you already have. Your fishes should provide the rest (you have quite a bit for a 2 footer but I think its still OK).
If you suspect it is circulation problems, then experiment with your output pipings. Be it using the rainbar and try to shoot them across the tank or using a lily pipe and blast them around the tank. I don't know the plant mass though you have quite a plant list for a 2 footer. -Calvin |
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#6 | |
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#7 |
Senior Dragon
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your setup (if light kept at 18W) is meant for a low maintanance tank with no co2.
your rotala and Lilaeopsis brasiliensis would prefer more light and co2. with low lights and no co2, they are not going to do very well... maybe even beginning to stunt. coupled with your fert dosing and no water changes, the slow growing plants and possible stunted plants are not able to take it up fast enough. with 10 hrs of light and abundant ferts, any ammonia produced by bioload or rotting plants will trigger algae and keep it going. manually remove as much BBA as you can. do a large water change and stop dosing ferts. replace the 2 plants with ferns, crypts and low light plants. you might want to replace the lotus too. feed fishes daily to provide the ferts. lower lights to 8hrs for a start and slowly increase back to 10hrs if needed. as usual no water changes, just top up. |
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#8 |
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LUSHGro contains a general level of NPK and small amounts of other elements. As you are going low tech you shouldn't be dosing so much. You are already dosing N, P and K in powder form and Seachem Flourish contains some (actually quite low) levels of NPK and a good dose of trace.
Let the fish provide the rest. The point of having non-CO2 tanks is to have less dosage, not the other way around. For a non-CO2 tank like yours, generally the more important aspect is to have a rich base fert and generally let the fishes provide the rest. I will not recommend ditching it immediately. If I were you I will slowly decrease the dosage over time and see if there are any impacts on the plants. But my guess is that there won't be much. Here's a good link for Tom Barr's Non-CO2 method: http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum...ad.php?t=13623 -Calvin |
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